時尚界新風尚 名人古董裝成搶手貨
Could the most lucrative investment portfolio you own be hiding in your closet? Important fashion items from the 20th century are fetching record prices at auction, and estimates at a number of high-profile sales this autumn look set to push prices even higher.
最佳投資組合可能是自己的壓箱底服裝嗎？20世紀有重要紀念意義的時裝在拍賣會上不斷拍出令人咋舌的高價，可以預見今秋很多場引人矚目的拍賣定會使競價更上一層樓。In 2011, a gold commodities trader paid $1.8m for Michael Jackson’s jacket from the “Thriller” video at a sale by Los Angeles-based entertainment auction house Julien’s. Darren Julien, the house’s chief executive, says investors and hedge funds are looking at fashion as a way to diversify from other hard goods, such as art, as fashion “will turn a profit over five years and shows wealth and status in the office while it appreciates”.
2011年，在洛杉磯“明星拍賣行”朱利安拍賣行(Julien’s)舉行的一場拍賣會上，邁克爾?傑克遜(Michael Jackson)演唱《顫慄》(Thriller)時所穿的夾克衫被某位黃金大宗交易商以180萬美元拍走。拍賣行CEO達倫?朱利安(Darren Julien)說投資商和對衝基金把時裝視爲藝術品等耐用商品拓展出去的領域，因爲古董時裝“五年後就會贏利。一旦升值，掛在辦公室裏能顯現自己的財富及身份”。Celia Joicey, head of London’s Fashion and Textile Museum, which experienced an 87 per cent year-on-year increase in visitors to August 2013, says: “Fashion was given a value the minute it went into the museum space, with prices rising alongside the soaring visitor figures.”
倫敦時裝與紡織品博物館(Fashion and Textile Museum)館長西莉亞?喬西(celiajoicey)說：“時裝一旦被博物館收藏，價值立馬突現，參觀人數飈升的同時，價位也隨之水漲船高。”截止2013年8月，倫敦時裝與紡織品博物館的參觀人數逐年增長了87%。
Dilys Blum, senior curator at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, which has a 30,000-strong fashion collection that includes Grace Kelly’s wedding dress, says: “There’s not that much 18th- and 19th-century material around now because the pieces are more difficult to find. It’s all about 20th-century couture and wearable fashion because this is where the money is.”
費城藝術博物館(Philadelphia Museum of Art)資深策展人迪利斯?布洛姆(Dilys Blum)說：“如今存世的18、19世紀的時裝物件很少，原因是它們越來越難以淘到。博物館收藏的幾乎多爲20世紀的時裝，因爲它們纔是投資價值所在。”Japanese designers from the 1980s such as Comme des Gar?ons and Yohji Yamamoto are must-buy names now, say industry insiders. They will be “unaffordable for individuals in 10 years’ time”, says fashion auctioneer Kerry Taylor, whose fashion and textiles sale kicked off the international fashion auction season this month.
業內人士說，Comme des Gar?ons與山本耀司(Yohji Yamamoto)這些日本上世紀80年代設計師設計的時裝如今成了收藏界炙手可熱的搶手貨。“10年之後，他們當初設計的時裝價位讓私人藏家望而卻步”，時裝拍賣商凱麗?泰勒(Kerry Taylor)說。本月，她的時裝與紡織品拍賣會拉開了今冬國際時裝拍賣會的序幕。As Yves Saint Laurent muse Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain says: “In the old days a couture dress was a work of art.” Last week, she held the first of many sales of her 12,000-piece collection at Paris’s H?tel Drouot. Reported to be one of “the most beautiful private collections of haute couture in the world”, it includes everything from 1980s Azzedine Ala?a to Yves Saint Laurent from the 1960s and 1970s. “There was a huge pride in the way things were made and finished, a whole industry of skilled artisans,” she says, “but that has all gone now.”
曾是伊夫?聖?羅蘭(Yves Saint Laurent)御用模特的達妮埃爾(Danielle Luquet de Saint Germain)說：“禮服在過去屬於藝術作品。”不久前，在巴黎杜歐宮(H?telDrouot)，她對自己收藏的12000件時裝藏品舉行了首場拍賣會。據報道，這是“全球私人所收藏的最漂亮高檔時裝”，拍品從上世紀60、70年代的伊夫?聖?羅蘭時裝到上世紀80年代的阿瑟丁?阿拉亞 (AzzedineAla?a)，品類齊全，應有盡有。“製作及潤飾突顯出無比尊貴的氣息，展現了設計高手的整體行業水準，”她說，“但這一切如今已一去不復返了。”Lots at New York’s Augusta Auctions on November 14 include a shimmering pale green sequinned and beaded 1920s party dress ($400-$600 estimate); a bejewelled silk satin Christian Dior 1952 Palmyre dress (￡26,000-￡28,000); a 1968-69 Yves Saint Laurent floor-length gown adorned with this autumn’s must-have ostrich feathers (
