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歐羅巴十二寶之巴黎的傘

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For the Travel section’s Oct. 19 issue on Europe, writers and editors selected special items to profile from a dozen cities. Below, explore everything from chocolate in Brussels to silk in Florence to design in Copenhagen.

在歐洲版10月19日旅遊板塊,作者與編輯精選了十二個城市的獨特珍寶,下面,我們從布魯塞爾的巧克力、佛羅倫薩的絲綢到哥本哈根的設計,逐一欣賞吧。

歐羅巴十二寶之巴黎的傘

Paris: Umbrellas

巴黎的傘

“Can you picture how drop-dead gorgeous this city is in the rain?” So muses the American tourist Gil Pender, played by Owen Wilson, in Woody Allen’s “Midnight in Paris.”

“你能想像在雨天,這座城市美得多麼不可救藥嗎?”在伍迪·艾倫的電影《午夜巴黎》(Midnight in Paris)中,歐文·威爾遜(Owen Wilson)扮演的美國遊客吉爾·彭達(Gil Pender)若有所思地說。

When you’re ready to find out, stop at Parasolerie Heurtault (85, avenue Daumesnil; ), a haven of handmade, high-end umbrellas in myriad materials and styles made by the craftsman Michel Heurtault.

如果你打算領略一番,就在赫爾托特傘店(Parasolerie Heurtault,多梅尼大街85號,網址)停下腳步。這家避風港專營的高端手工陽傘由手工藝人米歇爾·赫爾托特(Michel Heurtault)親手製作,含各種材料和款式。

After a career making costumes for films, theatrical productions, historical balls and French fashion houses, Mr. Heurtault in 2008 opened his atelier-boutique to devote himself to the devices that had fascinated him since youth. “By 8 years old,” Mr. Heurtalt said, “I could take them apart fully and put them back together again.”

赫爾托特先生過去專職爲電影、戲劇、歷史主題舞會和法國時裝店做衣服,2008年,他開了這家精品工作室,專門製作這件他從幼時就心醉神迷的物品——傘。“8歲那年,”赫爾托特先生說,“我就能把傘拆開,再完整地裝好。”

Using both modern and centuries-old machines and tools, he and an assistant construct the shop’s wares. Fine and rare woods form the shafts. Handles range from sewn leather to engraved silver to carved wood inlaid with horn or jewels. Linen, cotton or silk — all treated to be impermeable to water and ultraviolet rays — are cut and sewn into the canopies, which might be adorned with lace, ribbon, embroidery or even ostrich feathers.

他和助手一起使用傳承數百年的古典機器及現代工具爲自己的店鋪製造傘具。他們用精美而稀有的木頭做成傘柄,把手豐富多樣,縫着羽毛,雕刻着銀飾,鑲嵌着牛角或珠寶。傘布的材料則包括牛仔布、棉布和絲綢,處理後都不透水、不透紫外線,精心裁剪縫紉做成蓬蓋,再用蕾絲、緞帶、刺繡甚至鴕鳥毛加以裝飾。

歐羅巴十二寶之巴黎的傘 第2張

To tap your inner Audrey, the Hepburn model (520 euros, about $640) is made from striped black and white fabric with black lace trim. The slim, straight beechwood stem and handle allow for easy twirling. The Dorléac (490 euros) is named for the actress Françoise Dorléac (sister of Catherine Deneuve) and sports a red sequin web under its black silk canopy. For protection from the elements (and paparazzi), the VIP (690 euros) features a deep bell-shaped canopy. The men’s version of the VIP, called Prosper (490 euros), incorporates black or gray silk, a maple shaft, and an inlaid horn handle.

爲了寵愛你內心的奧黛麗·赫本,買一把赫本典範傘(520歐元,合640美元左右)吧,它用黑白條紋加黑色蕾絲邊製成,筆挺修長的山櫸木傘柄和傘把很容易旋轉。丹妮芙傘(49歐元)得名於凱瑟琳·德納芙(Catherine Deneuve)的姐姐、女明星弗朗索瓦斯·丹妮芙(Françoise Dorléac),黑絲綢的傘蓋之下罩着紅色的亮片網。爲了保護用戶免受惡劣天氣(和狗仔隊)的侵襲,VIP傘(69歐元)的特色是一張深深的鐘形傘蓋。VIP傘的男性版本叫做繁榮(Prosper,490歐元),由黑色與灰色的絲綢製成,有楓木傘柄和鑲嵌牛角的傘把。

The shop even sells the Rolls-Royce of umbrellas — literally. Invited by Rolls to create an umbrella inspired by the car’s interior, Mr. Heurtault produced one with a curved ebony-wood shaft, a handle of white stingray leather, thin ribs sheathed in white silk, and a large black silk canopy. All for just 8,000 euros. SETH SHERWOOD

這家店甚至出售勞斯萊斯傘——千真萬確。赫爾托特先生曾受勞斯先生邀請制傘,他受汽車內飾的靈感啓發,製造了一把有彎曲檀木傘柄與淡灰白羽毛把手的大傘,纖細的傘骨外面包裹白綢,蒙着巨大的黑色絲絲綢傘蓋,售價僅8000歐元。賽斯·舍伍德供稿。