《星球大戰》激發時裝靈感 Fashion feels the force
Northern Ireland-born Jonathan Anderson, 30, launched JW Anderson in 2008. In 2013, he was also appointed creative director of the luxury Spanish label Loewe.
今年30歲的喬納森褠德森(Jonathan) Anderson出生於北愛爾蘭，他於2008年創建JW Anderson品牌。2013年，他還被任命爲西班牙奢侈品牌羅意威(Loewe)的創意總監。
‘Star Wars is significant for me because it’s about escapism. We all like the idea of having something that reflects the world we live in — but abstracted. Where we can see parallels, but altered — like a non-moment in time. I think Star Wars is good for that. You can’t categorise the costumes by one particular decade; the clothes are hyper-modern, but they have this organic oddness to them which is why they so often inspire my collections.
“《星球大戰》(Star Wars)系列片對我意義非凡，因爲它講述的是虛擬世界的故事。我們都喜歡反映現實世界的東西————但以高度抽象的方式呈現。在影片中，我們能看到它與現實世界的影子，但已經過藝術處理————類似時間中的無矩現象。我覺得《星球大戰》對此輕車熟路。你無法把片中的各種服裝具體歸類於哪個時代；它們都是超現代時尚款式，但它們的怪異風格卻是一脈相承，這就是它們常常啓迪我的設計靈感之原因所在。”
‘For me, it’s all about juxtaposition — wrongs and rights, good taste, bad taste. I think my collections, for Loewe and my own label, need to feel quite sweet but fundamentally a bit screwed. You always need both good and evil.
“在我看來，它反映的是對與錯、高雅與粗俗的對立並列。無論是爲羅意威還是自己品牌，我覺得自己設計的時裝都應賞心悅目，但從根本上說得略微離經叛道。善惡元素都得在設計的時裝中有所體現。”
‘As a kid I was obsessed by the movement of R2-D2, and how through all the films it just gets better and better. The stormtroopers — with their black and white costumes — are so striking, plus we all like a baddie.
“我從小就對R2-D2機器人的各種呆萌動作以及它在《星戰》系列片中表現越發出色癡迷不已。身穿黑白裝束的帝國突擊隊(stormtroopers)同樣讓我念念不忘，此外，我們也很喜歡片中的壞蛋形象。”
‘I’ve always wanted to use Star Wars graphics, which is why I was so excited when Disney approached me to do a piece for the charity collection for Great Ormond Street Hospital. It’s not often you get approached by Star Wars, and I like collaborations that have a personal attachment. This one spoke to me because it was mega-fun to let go and become a child, and be obsessive about something.’
“我一直想借鑑《星球大戰》中的服裝設計，這就是當初迪斯尼公司(Disney)與我接洽、希望我爲倫敦大奧蒙德街兒科醫院(Great Ormond Street Hospital)慈善募捐設計一款時裝時，自己欣喜若狂之原因所在。設計師能得到《星球大戰》製片方的青睞，實屬難得；我喜歡能打上個人喜好烙印的合作模式。它一下子就讓我心動，因爲自己可以‘肆意妄爲’，盡情重現童年時的歡愉，並且沉醉其中。”
Husband and wife, Justin Thornton, 46, and Thea Bregazzi, 47, come from the Isle of Man. They launched Preen by Thornton Bregazzi in 1996.
夫妻檔設計組合：46歲的賈斯汀儠罨(Justin Thornton)與47歲的西婭佈雷加茲(Thea Bregazzi)來自英國的馬恩島(Isle of Man)。1996年，他倆創建了Preen by Thornton Bregazzi品牌。
‘There have always been slight sci-fi references in our designs but it wasn’t apparent to everyone until we decided to put Darth Vader on the front of a dress for AW14: it’s usually more of a feeling than a direct allusion — a graphic line or element that comes through. We love Darth Vader. You could show his picture to anyone in the world and they would know who he was.
“我們一直從科幻片中借鑑設計靈感，但直到我們把天行者達斯維德(Darth Vader)的形象印在2014年秋冬季時裝前胸，它才變得衆所周知。通常說來，我們與其說是直接‘形似’，倒不如說是‘神似’————源自影片的圖形線條或是圖形元素。我特別喜歡達斯維德。全世界任何人只要看到他的照片，都會立刻識別出來。”
‘The most creative people at the head of the most creative industries are sci-fi fans, and Star Wars fans, and they’re all about our age. That’s what’s so inspirational about Star Wars. We grew up with it; it was one of the first films that meant something to us.
“在最具創意的各個行業，最具創意者就是科幻迷與星戰迷，這些人與我們年齡相仿。這就是爲何《星球大戰》影片能激發源源不斷的靈感。我們伴着《星球大戰》影片一起成長，它是深度影響我們的最初一批影片。”
‘We all carry Star Wars with us: the aesthetic, the visuals, the costumes, the robots, they all stand the test of time. And there are so many layers to the films’ design — the Samurai/Japanese references for the Jedis are quite rough and raw, contrasting with the pure white battleships. We love the juxtaposition. That’s why we can always use Star Wars as a reference, whether it’s a white minimal collection, or a natural, beigey, organic, wrapping collection. It all comes from the same source.’
“我們與《星球大戰》可謂形影不離：其審美觀、視覺形象、服飾以及機器人，而且它們成功經受了時間檢驗。影片的服裝千姿百態————身穿日本武士裝束的絕地武士(Jedis)顯得粗獷威猛，他們與純白色戰艦形成了鮮明對比。我們都喜歡鮮明對比的並置方式，這就是我們經常借用《星球大戰》素材之原因所在，不管是設計極簡風格的白色裝，還是天然有機面料的米色裹裝系列，其設計靈感無一例外都源自《星戰》系列影片。”
Austro-Italian Peter Pilotto, 38, and his Belgian/Austrian business partner Christopher de Vos, 35, met while studying at the Royal Academy of Fine Art in Antwerp. They launched Peter Pilotto in 2007.
今年38歲的意籍奧地利人Peter Pilotto與他比利時與澳洲雙重國籍的商業搭檔、35歲的克里斯托弗德沃斯(Christopher de Vos)在安特衛普皇家美術學院(Royal Academy of Fine Art in Antwerp)上學時結識，他倆於2007年合夥創建Peter Pilotto品牌。
Growing up, Star Wars was on TV every year. We saw it so many times — the first three movies from the 1970s and 80s we really liked. The ones from 10 years ago, not so much.
從小到大，《星球大戰》的影片年年在電視上映。我已看了N遍——我們真得很喜歡上世紀70年代至80年代上映的前三部影片，但從10年前開始上映的後幾部，我們覺得只是一般般。
‘There’s a certain Star Wars aesthetic that we were born with — something so familiar and unfamiliar at the same time. We don’t reference a single character in particular, it’s more the general visuals and the set that fascinate us. Those scenes from the first movie: the shiny robot, the spaceship in the desert, and these antique costumes in the mix with a futuristic environment — that tension is so inspiring.
“《星戰》中的一些美學，是我們生而就有的。我們不會專門引用其中某一特定人物，更多的情況是引用自己魂牽夢縈的某些畫面與場景。首部《星戰》影片的那些經典鏡頭：閃亮機器人、沙漠中的太空船、以及未來世界中的那些古代風格服飾————這種對立統一給我很大啓迪。”
‘There’s a moment in Star Wars where the Millennium Falcon accelerates to warp speed and the stars go into this perspective tunnel: we used that as a reference to create a galaxy print for AW08. Our show producer Alex Betak is a big Star Wars fan as well, so that’s one of the reasons we always have a sci-fi undertone to our sets.’
“《星球大戰》的其中一個鏡頭是：千年隼號宇宙飛船(Millennium Falcon)加速至曲速航行速度（Warp Speed，超過光速），而其它恆星也都進入這個透視隧道：在2008年的秋冬季時裝中，我們借用這個場景設計了星系圖紋。我們的時裝秀監製艾歷克斯貝塔克(Alex Betak)也是超級《星戰》迷，因此這就是我們總是在推出的時裝系列中體現科幻元素之原因所在。”
Stockton-on-Tees designer Claire Barrow, 25, launched her label in 2013. Since February 2014 she has been receiving Newgen sponsorship from the British Fashion Council and Topshop.
來自蒂斯河畔斯托克頓(Stockton-on-Tees)的設計師克萊爾巴羅(Claire Barrow)今年芳齡25，她於2013年推出了自己的同名品牌。自2014年2月以來，她一直接受英國時裝協會(British Fashion Council)以及Newgen資助。
‘I was seven years old when I first saw the Star Wars films. A cinema in Middlesbrough reissued the original three so I went to see them with my dad. They inspired and disturbed me: when Hans Solo gets frozen in the carbonite in the Empire Strikes Back and when Darth Vader’s mask comes off in Return of the Jedi; both [scenes] really frightened me.
“我第一次觀看《星球大戰》系列影片時只有七歲，米德爾斯堡(Middlesbrough)的一家影院當時重播該系列之前三部，所以我與老爸一起去觀看。看得我既激動不已又膽戰心驚：第五部《帝國反擊戰》(Empire Strikes Back)中漢∠洛(Han Solo)身陷炸藥堆以及第三部《絕地歸來》(Return of the Jedi)中達斯維德被摘掉面具這兩個場景直看得我心驚肉跳。”
It’s that element of fear without it being unwatchable that makes them so appealing. Sci-fi always influences my work. I once read that it is the purest form of creativity because it’s predicting a future that we don’t know, which helps to create stories that build the narrative of your collections.
“正是這種恐懼感讓影片百看不厭（沒有這種恐懼感，《星戰》系列片就會索然無味）。科幻影片一直影響着我的設計。我曾經讀過相關文章，說這是最爲純粹的創意，因爲它預測的是我們一無所知的未來世界，它還有助於編造故事，從而爲自己的設計不斷提供素材。”
‘The sweaters and T-shirts I’ve done refer to the films’ merchandise, with hand-drawn illustrations of C-3PO and R2-D2 as the best of friends — those characters make the films more fun.’
“我設計的毛衫以及T恤都借鑑了《星戰》片中出現的物件，其中禮儀機器人以及R2-D2的手繪插圖給予我最多靈感————那些角色也讓影片妙趣橫生。”
Designers featured participated in Disney and Lucasfilm’s ‘Star Wars: Fashion Finds the Force’ event, in aid of Great Ormond Street Hospital. Charity sweatshirts are available at Selfridges stores. ‘Star Wars: The Force Awakens’ is in UK cinemas from December 17
特效設計師參與迪斯尼以及盧卡斯影業(Lucasfilm)組織的爲倫敦大奧蒙德街兒科醫院慈善募捐的《星球大戰激發時尚靈感》(Star Wars: Fashion Finds the Force)活動，設計的慈善T恤在塞爾福裏奇百貨店(Selfridges)公開銷售。
