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米索尼 意大利時尚的外來家族

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Since 1953, the tight-knit clan has managed to build one of Italy’s most storied fashion empires while remaining exceptionally ian fashion is, on the whole, a story of family businesses built on native soil, an immovable feast of Fendis and Etros working for the greater glory of mother and motherland. But few families tug an outsider’s heart like the Missonis, whose chromatic knitwear has woven through time for more than half a century.

從1953年,這個親密的宗族建立起意大利最著名的時裝帝國之一,而這個家族依然十分令人喜愛。意大利時裝總體來說是本土家族企業,是芬迪(Fendi)和艾綽(Etro)等品牌爲母親和祖國增光添彩的堅固不移的盛宴。但還有幾個外來家族雄心勃勃參與角逐,比如米索尼(Missoni),半個多世紀以來它一直在編織彩色針織衫。

米索尼 意大利時尚的外來家族

Their sweaters knit on shawl-making machines — the innovation that launched Missoni as a fashion company — and a zigzag as recognizable as any logo are now part of fashion history. But this is just as much a story of Ottavio, known as Tai, and Rosita, the family’s patriarch and matriarch, and their charmingly delightful and totally unpretentious close-knit are the designers: Angela (Rosita and Tai’s youngest) took over as the house designer in 1996, and her daughter Margherita works on accessories and serves as muse. They are the business stewards: Angela’s late brother Vittorio was the company’s president until 2013, when his death in a small plane accident was a personal tragedy and an international mystery. They are the historians: Another brother, Luca, oversees the archives, and Angela’s son, Francesco, moved back home to work on a cookbook of family recipes. His cousin Marco has modeled on the runway. The family, at home in Sumirago, posed for their ad campaign in 2010. Who better? The Missonis are their own best advertisement.

他們的毛衣是在做披肩的機器上織出來的——這個創新讓米索尼成爲一家時裝公司——毛衣上的之字形圖案和任何著名標識一樣爲人熟知。這些毛衣是時裝歷史的一部分。但同樣鐫刻在歷史上的還有他們的男族長奧塔維奧(Ottavio,人稱塔伊[Tai])、和女族長羅西塔(Rosita),以及他們迷人、可愛、謙遜、親密的孩子們。他們是設計師:安吉拉(Angela,羅西塔和塔伊的幼女)1996年成爲該公司的設計師,安吉拉的女兒瑪格麗塔(Margherita)是配飾設計師,同時也是安吉拉的繆斯。他們也是公司的管理者:安吉拉已故的哥哥維託利奧(Vittorio)曾是公司總裁,2013年乘坐小型飛機失事,這既是個人悲劇,也是全世界的謎團。他們還是史學家:安吉拉的另一個哥哥盧卡(Luca)監管公司檔案,安吉拉的兒子弗朗西斯科(Francesco)搬回家中,撰寫家族菜譜。他的表哥(或表弟)馬爾科(Marco)是秀臺上的模特。2010年,這家人在蘇米拉戈家中拍攝公司的廣告海報。還有更好的人選嗎?米索尼一家就是最好的廣告。

Theirs is a rarefied world, headquartered in the Italian alps, but open to guests. Those who sit down with them at their postshow dinners know their domesticity and warmth, the antithesis of fashion’s stereotypical sangfroid.

他們的世界很純淨,總部在意大利的阿爾卑斯山,但是對賓客開放。在時裝秀後的宴會上和他們坐在一起的人瞭解他們的溫暖和對家庭的熱愛,他們是時裝界常見的冷漠的對立面。

In May of last year, Ottavio passed away at 92. That September, Margherita’s son, Otto, was born, swaddled in chevron. Two weeks later, Angela sent her collection down the runway in Milan. Their spirit, like the proverbial show, goes on.

去年5月,92歲的奧塔維奧去世。那一年9月,瑪格麗塔的兒子奧托(Otto)出生,包裹在V字形襁褓裏。兩週後,安吉拉在米蘭的秀臺上展示她的收藏。正如俗話所說,他們的精神永存。