盡享奢華 用別具匠心的材料製造腕錶

A new breed of Watchmaker is breaking the industry's mold of elegant-if-conservative designs by crafting timepieces out of unusual and exotic materials, including pieces of classic sports cars and parts of the Statue of Liberty.

鐘錶行業“傳統即高雅”的設計理念正在被新一代鐘錶商所顛覆，他們正在使用罕見且奇特的材料來打造鐘錶，其中包括取自經典跑車以及自由女神像的材料。

Take RJ Watches SA's Moon Orbiter, a watch inspired by the Apollo missions that took the first men to the moon. Each timepiece contains metal from the Apollo 11 spacecraft used by Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin to get to the Sea of Tranquility in 1969.

讓我們以RJ Watches SA製造的Moon Orbiter腕錶爲例，這款腕錶的靈感源自實現了人類首次登月的阿波羅登月計劃。每塊Moon Orbiter腕錶都含有取自“阿波羅11號”(Apollo 11)宇宙飛船的金屬，1969年，尼爾·阿姆斯特朗(Neil Armstrong)和巴茲·奧爾德林(Buzz Aldrin)正是乘坐“阿波羅11號”宇宙飛船抵達寧靜海(Sea of Tranquilit)的。

The Geneva-based watchmaker, commonly know as Romain Jerome, also secured moon dust at an auction, incorporating the extraterrestrial particles in the timepiece's dial.

這家總部位於日內瓦的鐘表商爲人所熟知的名字是羅曼·傑羅姆(Romain Jerome)，該公司還在一次拍賣中將月面塵埃收歸囊中，並在這款手錶的錶盤中用上了這些來自外太空的顆粒。

'We are offering our customers the opportunity to wear a piece of history,' Chief Executive Manuel Emch, said at the BaselWorld watch show, which is running this week. The company has also produced watches using metal from the ill-fated passenger liner Titanic and copper removed from the Statue of Liberty when the New York statue was renovated for its 100th anniversary.

羅曼·傑羅姆的首席執行長曼紐爾·埃姆什(Manuel Emch)在本月舉辦的巴塞爾鐘錶珠寶展(BaselWorld)上表示：“我們向消費者提供的是佩戴歷史的機會。”羅曼·傑羅姆還曾以取自“泰坦尼克號”(Titanic)沉船上的金屬與紐約自由女神像上的銅件（百年慶典整修時被替換下來的）爲原料製造過手錶。

Romain Jerome's creations might be out of this world but the company's strategy isn't. Watchmakers are increasingly turning to unusual materials, including wood and gold-and-ceramic blends, to differentiate their products in an industry crowded with Swatch Group AG's Omega and Longines lines and Compagnie Financière Richemont SA's Cartier and IWC lines, as well as Rolex SA's eponymous brand.

羅曼·傑羅姆的腕錶或許稱得上是世間極品，但是該公司的策略卻並非獨步天下。爲了在行業中脫潁而出，在這個充斥着斯沃琪集團(Swatch Group AG)生產的歐米茄(Omega)和浪琴(Longines)、歷峯集團(Compagnie Financiere Richemont SA)生產的卡地亞(Cartier)和萬國(IWC)以及勞力士集團(Rolex SA)生產的知名腕錶的鐘表世界中，鐘錶商越來越青睞與衆不同的材料，包括木材以及融合了黃金和陶瓷的新材質。

Among the more wild efforts are a Richard Mille SA watch made entirely of sapphire, that sells for a cool $1.8 million, and the $55 million Hallucination wristwatch created by British jeweler Graff that contains more than 100 carats of diamonds.

其中登峯造極的兩款作品要屬理查德·米勒(Richard Mille SA)打造的全藍寶石腕錶和英國珠寶商格拉夫(Graff)打造的鑲嵌有超過100克拉 石的Hallucination腕錶了。前者的售價爲180萬美元（約合人民幣1,120萬元），後者的售價爲5,500萬美元（約合人民幣3.4億元）。

Scalfaro Watch & Jewellery's GmbH Co. & KG timepieces appeal to both watch and automobile enthusiasts by incorporating parts of some of motoring's most storied cars. The company, based in Neuhausen, Germany, has melted down parts of a Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Gullwing and a Porsche 917 to make its limited-edition watches. The parts are often donated by owners--material from a Ferrari 250 GTO owned by Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason was turned into luxury watches.

Scalfaro Watch & Jewellery製造的GmbH Co. & KG腕錶吸引了腕錶愛好者和汽車愛好者的目光，因爲歷史上最具傳奇色彩的一些汽車的配件被融合進了這款腕錶的製作材料中。這家總部位於德國諾伊豪森(Neuhausen)的公司將一輛梅賽德斯-奔馳(Mercedes-Benz) 300 SL Gullwing和一輛保時捷(Porsche) 917的零件融化後製成了限量款腕錶。用以製表的汽車零件往往是車主捐獻的——平克·弗洛伊德(Pink Floyd)樂隊的鼓手尼克·馬森(Nick Mason)捐獻的一輛法拉利(Ferrari)250 GTO就被用於打造奢華腕錶。

The company, whose watches cost from between EUR4,000 and EUR10,000 ($5,500-$13,800), works with the engineers who designed the cars. 'For our customers it is a way of expressing their passion for the car,' said company co-founder Alexander Kuhnle, 'Our watches tell a story. They contain the DNA of the cars and their engineers.'

Scalfaro與參與上述汽車設計的工程師展開了合作，該品牌腕錶的售價從4,000歐元至10,000歐元不等（約合人民幣34,500元至人民幣86,200元）。該公司的聯合創始人亞歷山大·庫恩勒(Alexander Kuhnle)表示：“對我們的顧客來說，這是他們表達自己對汽車的熱情的方式。我們的腕錶會講故事。在它們身上蘊含着這些汽車與打造這些汽車的工程師的DNA。”

Some watchmakers take a more natural approach. Italy's Lowell srl uses mahogany, pine and a host of other woods to make what it calls environmentally friendly watches that cost between EUR300 and EUR400. The company uses plastic from recycled bottles for the straps, it builds the cases out of wood from a furniture factory.

一些鐘錶商在材料選取上更加追求自然。意大利鐘錶商Lowell Srl選用了桃花心木、松木以及多種其他木材製成了該公司所稱的環保型手錶，這些手錶的售價爲300歐元至400歐元（約合人民幣2590元至人民幣3450元）。該公司選用塑料瓶回收製成的塑料作爲腕錶錶帶的材料，並用來自一家傢俱廠的木料做成了腕錶的表盒。

'Stainless steel watches are everywhere,' said Andrea Rovatti, the marketing director. 'Not many people make wooden watches.'

Lowell Srl的營銷總監安德里亞·羅瓦提(Andrea Rovatti)稱：“不鏽鋼表比比皆是。製作木表的商家可不多。”

Hublot, owned by France's LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA, is creating new materials to distinguish its wristwatches from the pack.

法國酩悅·軒尼詩-路易·威登集團(LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA)旗下的品牌宇舶(Hublot)正在打造能夠使自己的腕錶與衆不同的新材料。

Its Big Bang Ferrari Magic Gold, which costs nearly 32,000 Swiss francs ($36,000), uses a blend of ceramic and 24-carat gold, an amalgam that carries gold's luster but is resistant to scratches. The company also launched a 150,000-franc watch earlier this year with a dial made from osmium, an extremely shiny metal from the same family as platinum.

宇舶的Big Bang法拉利魔力金錶(Ferrari Magic Gold)採用了陶瓷與24K金的複合材料，這種材質不僅能夠彰顯出黃金的奢華，還具有防刮特性。這款腕錶的售價接近32,000瑞士法郎（約合人民幣226,000元）。今年早些時候，宇舶還推出了一款售價爲150,000瑞士法郎（約合人民幣106萬元）的鋨錶盤腕錶，鋨屬於鉑族金屬，顏色極其絢麗。

'We don't want to repeat the past,' said Chief Executive Ricardo Guadalupe. 'We want to make the watches of today with technology that didn't exist before.'

宇舶首席執行長裏卡多·瓜達盧佩(Ricardo Guadalupe)表示：“我們不願複製歷史。我們希望用前所未有的科技來打造今天的腕錶。”