科學家研究發現:骨膠原抗皺面霜其實無效
They claim to hold the hands of time at bay by smoothing wrinkles and plumping up skin.
But expensive collagen creams are a waste of money, scientists said today. They say that the collagen molecules in the enticing-sounding lotions and potions are so large that very few make it through the skin.
一般認爲，骨膠原抗皺面霜能除皺喚膚，防止衰老。然而科學家卻表示，骨膠原面霜雖然價格不菲，但並無實在功效，因爲這些讓人眼花繚亂的護膚品所含的骨膠原分子太大，不能透過皮膚而真正被吸收。
Richard Guy, professor of pharmaceutical sciences at the University of Bath, said: 'The idea created by many of these products is that collagen can get through the upper layers of skin and reinforce our own natural collagen, but this is preposterous.
巴斯大學藥物學教授理查德 蓋伊稱："許多產品都宣稱骨膠原可以滲透淺層皮膚，補充人體骨膠原數量。純屬無稽之談，因爲骨膠原分子太大，皮膚結構會直接把大分子物質隔離在外。"
"The simple fact is that collagen is a huge molecule and the skin is designed to keep such substances out."
As a result, they sit on the surface of the face until they are rubbed off or washed away. Jonathan Hadgraft, professor of biophysical chemistry at the University of London's school of pharmacy, said: 'There is a popular belief that about 60 per cent of such creams is absorbed through the skin but the reality is that most of it just stays on the skin.
結果是骨膠原只會附着在臉部皮膚表面，一擦、一洗就掉。倫敦大學藥學院生物物理化學教授喬納森 哈德格拉斐特說："人們普遍認爲60%的面霜都會被皮膚吸收，然而事實卻是大部分都只附着在表皮。如果真能滲透皮膚、進入血液，就應歸爲藥物了。"
"If it did penetrate the skin and get into the blood, it would have to be classed as a medicine."
Collagen is a protein that gives skin its strength and elasticity. With the amount we make falling as we age, the protein has become a key ingredient of many creams that claim to rejuvenate the skin and smooth away wrinkles.
骨膠原是一種能增強皮膚彈性的蛋白質。隨着年齡的增長，骨膠原含量會慢慢降低，於是許多面霜便鼓吹這一成分能撫平皺紋，恢復肌膚活力。
A spokesman for L'Oreal said the firm includes dehydrated collagen spheres in some of its products. 'When combined with other ingredients and applied to the skin's surface, the spheres have been independently proven to expand by up to nine times and create a plumped, hydrating and smoothing effect of the skin's surface.'
歐萊雅的一位發言稱該公司部分產品含有脫水骨膠原球，"使用時，這些球體在其他成分作用下，會自動膨脹成原來的9倍大，從而撫平皺紋，補充水分。"
Chris Flower, of the Cosmetics, Toiletry and Perfumery Association said: "Manufacturers are very careful about the exact wording of the claims they make, but here is a risk of customers forming the wrong impression from some packaging and advertising."
英國化妝品盥洗用品及香水協會(CTPA)的克里斯 弗勞爾說："製造商們措辭嚴謹，有時候可能在包裝和廣告上誤導消費者。"
