蔻馳CEO 中國門店需要重新佈局
Coach COH -2.69% laid out on Thursday the strategy it hopes will help it win back the market share it has lost in North America to the likes of Michael Kors KORS -0.85% and kate spade KATE 2.59% , and accelerate its growth overseas.
蔻馳（Coach ）上週四透露戰略規劃，以期從邁克爾高司（Michael Kors）和Kate Spade等競爭對手手中奪回曾屬於自己的北美市場份額，同時推動海外業務加速增長。The New York handbag and leather-goods companytold Wall Street analysts that it planned to close 20% of its full-service stores in North America, where comparable sales fell 21% last quarter, in the coming months. The brand will consolidate some of its factory stores in the region as well. It will try to make up for that with better spots in department stores and high-touch flagship stores in the 12 major North American markets where it gets half of its sales.
這家總部設在紐約的手袋及皮革製品公司向華爾街分析師透露，它計劃於未來數月內關閉北美20%的全業務門店。這家公司第一季度北美同店銷售額下滑了21%。蔻馳還將關停北美地區的部分工廠店。與此同時，蔻馳將努力在北美地區打造更出色的百貨店中店及更注重客戶體驗的旗艦店來彌補關店的損失。這家公司在北美12個主要市場的業務佔它銷售總額的一半。In September, it will start selling the first collection designed by creative director Stuart Vevers, who has focused on the 73-year-old company’s heritage and New York roots. The new collection is a nod to Coach classics—and an effort to start to win back shoppers who thought the brand had grown too showy in recent years.
蔻馳將從9月份開始銷售創意總監斯圖亞特o維佛斯設計的第一個產品系列。維佛斯的產品設計理念依託於蔻馳73年曆史的傳承和紐約根源。這個系列的產品系意味着對蔻馳經典的迴歸，標誌着這家公司在努力重新贏得一些昔日擁躉的青睞。在這些粉絲的印象中，蔻馳品牌近幾年變得太花哨了。
Even in China, the motor of its sales growth of late, Coach is tweaking its approach, closing stores in locations that have become less attractive and opening new stores in better spots.
即使在中國市場（也是它近期的銷售增長引擎），蔻馳也在調整經營策略：關閉客流不理想的門店，另擇新址開設新店。Investors proved nervous and sent shares down 9% after the company said returning to growth could take a while.
投資者對蔻馳憂心忡忡。這家公司表示恢復增長可能需要一段時間的消息傳出後，公司股價應聲下挫了9%。Coach CEO Victor Luis, who took the reins in January after helping build the luxury company’s international business in recent years, sat down with Fortune at Coach’s Manhattan headquarters for an exclusive interview to discuss his strategy.
蔻馳CEO維克多o路易斯近日在公司曼哈頓總部接受了《財富》雜誌的專訪，闡述了他扭轉業務頹勢的策略。路易斯今年1月份走馬上任，出任蔻馳CEO。此前幾年，他一直在這家奢侈品公司國際業務部門擔任高管。Fortune: In closing stores in many smaller markets, do you not risk ceding the opportunity in such locations to rivals like Michael Kors, which is expanding?
《財富》：在許多規模較小的市場關閉門店，你們會不會因此把當地的機會拱手讓給邁克爾高司這類正在擴大門店網絡規模的競爭對手？Most of the moves are not about giving up on total markets. They are in markets where we have more than one location. In all of the malls where we are closing stores, we have a wholesale location, either at a Macy’s M 0.12% , a Bloomingdale’s, or another partner.
我們大部分的動作並不是徹底放棄某一個市場。在他們所在的市場中，我們的店面數量都不止一處。在所有我們計劃關閉門店的購物中心，我們無一例外都有一個批發店面，要麼設在梅西百貨（Macy’s），要麼是在布魯明戴爾百貨Why the focus on the 12 major North America markets, rather than a broader footprint?
你們爲什麼專注於北美12個主要市場，而不尋求更廣闊的市場空間？They represent over half of our sales, and certainly they represent the most important tourist destinations. They are the PR (public relations) and marketing megaphones to the world because a lot of the consumers who shop there tend to be the trendsetters as well.
我們在這些市場的業務佔到公司總銷售額的一半以上，當然它們是最重要的旅遊目的地。它們是面向全球的PR（公共關係）和營銷擴音器，因爲在那裏購物的消費者往往是引領潮流的人。How does your e-commerce, which you are overhauling currently, play into this shift away from malls?
你們正在大舉調整的電子商務業務在去購物中心化的戰略轉變中扮演什麼角色？Part of this is not Coach-specific. Part of what we are seeing in general is reduced traffic to the American shopping mall, driven by an increase in e-commerce. Certainly, with many of the consumers that would normally be shopping in these smaller locations, one of the opportunities is going to be how we can engage with them via our web site.”
在一定程度上，這並不是蔻馳特有的問題。受電子商務增長影響，美國各大購物中心的客流減少了。當然，考慮到許多消費者通常會在這些小店面購物，其中的一個商機在於我們如何能通過我們的網站爲他們服務。You say Coach will enhance its locations inside North American department stores. How and why will you do that?
你說你們將鞏固在北美百貨大樓內的蔻馳門店。你們具體會採取什麼做法？背後的原因是什麼？We are making investments targeted at making up for the store closings. There is a place for the American department store, and in those that we choose to be in, we want to look good.
爲彌補部分門店關張帶來的損失，我們正在進行鍼對性的投資。其中，美國各大百貨公司就佔有一席之地。而在我們相中的百貨大樓內，我們希望提升蔻馳門店的形象。In many of the locations, we’re going to be bringing Coach-funded sales specialists who will be able to ensure there is a level of customer service. Coach will have its own staff at 50 shops inside a department store next year, and triple that in another 2 years. [Until now, such sales staff were employed by the department store.]
我們將在衆多蔻馳門店內引進蔻馳聘請的銷售專員，確保高水準的客戶服務。明年，我們會在50家百貨大樓門店內部署內部蔻馳員工。再過兩年，這個數字將增加至150家。（目前爲止，蔻馳百貨大樓門店的銷售人員均由百貨公司聘用。）Coach announced today that it is looking for a spot to have a big New York City flagship—why is this important?
蔻馳剛剛宣佈了在紐約選址開設一家大型旗艦店的計劃。爲什麼紐約旗艦店計劃這麼重要？[It] would be the epicenter of Coach globally, a reflection of our total brand here, in the city where we were born, in the city that is our number-one inspiration. That is a very important project for us, and that search continues.
紐約旗艦店將成爲蔻馳全球的正中心，反映出我們品牌紮根於這座城市。紐約不僅是蔻馳的誕生地，也是它最大的靈感源泉。這對我們來說是一個非常重要的項目，目前選址工作還在全力進行中。How does your New York heritage play into your expansion plans in Europe, where you remain a small player in many key markets and where many upscale and luxury brands are much older and better established?
在歐洲衆多核心市場，歷史更悠久的衆多高端奢侈品品牌林立，而你們的業務規模仍然較小。蔻馳的紐約歷史傳承在你們的歐洲擴張計劃中將發揮什麼作用？We have to go in there with a combination of ‘yes, we have a history and heritage of craftsmanship as the leading U.S. house of leather, but we are also a fashion and lifestyle resource that is today indicative of the New York fashion style.’
我們憑藉兩點進軍歐洲市場：“沒錯，作爲美國領先的皮革製品公司，我們擁有手工藝歷史和傳承，但我們同時也是時尚和生活方式的潮流引領者，是如今紐約時尚風格的風向標。”Vevers has dived into Coach’s archives, an approach that has informed his first collection for Coach. How does the focus on Coach’s history help you?
維佛斯一頭扎進蔻馳的歷史中，爲他的首套蔻馳系列作品帶來了靈感。專注於蔻馳的歷史能發揮什麼作用？There is a generation of consumers who don’t know Coach of earlier years and others who do, and I think what we need to do, and are trying to do, over the next 12-18 months, is ensure that consumers are aware of our core, what is our DNA, who are our roots, who we are.
雖然有一代人對我們的歷史瞭然於心，但年輕一代消費者並不十分了解早年的蔻馳。我認爲我們需要做、而且正在嘗試做的就是：在未來的12-18個月內，確保消費者瞭解我們的內核，也就是我們的DNA。瞭解我們的根，我們是誰。You are closing some locations in China, and replacing them with others. Why are you willing to run the risk of slowing your growth in a market that is increasingly important to you?
你們正在關閉中國的一些店面，代之以新設的店面。你們爲什麼願意在這個日益重要的市場去冒增長放緩的風險？Things in China move so rapidly so great malls, great department stores that were the right place to be 5 years ago, may no longer be that place. We’re taking an aggressive stance in ensuring we are in the right locations by making the tough decision to close some stores and move them to better locations.
中國市場日新月異，5年前很適合我們的大商場和大百貨公司如今可能已經不再是最佳的選擇。我們正在以積極的攻勢確保獲得最佳的店址。這就需要我們做出艱難的決定，也就是關閉一部分門店，把它們轉移到更好的地段。
