旅遊達人訪古探今的河內兩種新奇玩法
In and around Hanoi stand thousands of years of history. The spiral-shaped Co Loa citadel complex is thought to date to around 200 B.C. A delicate pagoda perched atop a white column in the heart of the city is from the 11th century. But no era may have shaped Hanoi more than the years of French colonial occupation, 1883 to 1954.
河內及其周邊地區擁有數千年的歷史。螺旋形的古螺城(Co Loa)據說可以追溯到公元前200年；高聳於市中心白柱臺之上的精緻佛塔始建於11世紀。然而在河內的發展過程中，可能沒有哪個時代能超過1883到1954年法國殖民時期對它的影響。The Vietnamese capital was refashioned into a French-style metropolis, with broad avenues lined with trees, European-inflected buildings and Paris-style cafes. Despite the oppression that took place during the colonial years, and the devastating war and dramatic political changes that followed, it's a time -- or at least a feel -- that's often romanticized. And the French legacy is still evident in almost every aspect of Hanoi, from architecture to art to food.
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street Journal圖片：探訪河內的古與今這座越南的首都被重新塑造成法蘭西風格的都市，寬闊的街道綠樹成蔭，處處是歐式風格的建築和巴黎風情的咖啡館。儘管經歷了殖民時期的壓迫以及那之後毀滅性的戰爭和政治上的劇變，那依然是一段常常被賦予浪漫色彩的時期——至少感覺上是這樣。法國的遺存在河內的幾乎每一個方面都依然十分明顯，從建築到藝術再到美食，無處不在。But this city isn't stuck in the past -- in recent years, steel and glass buildings have claimed their place in Hanoi's skyline; clothing designers with an eye to Paris and Milan have been showing their collections at Vietnam Fashion Week; and new galleries and artist studios have blossomed.
然而這座城市並沒有停留在過去——近年來，玻璃鋼架建築已經矗立在河內的天際線上；着眼巴黎和米蘭的服裝設計師在越南時裝週(Vietnam Fashion Week)上展示着他們的作品；新落成的畫廊和藝術家工作室遍地開花。
Just as destinations have different sides, so do travelers. This pair of itineraries lets you spend a visit delving into Hanoi's colonial past or exploring its buzzy, fluid present. Or, blend the two lists for a best-of bespoke guide.
正如旅遊目的地有多面性一樣，旅遊者們的需求也各不相同。這裏有兩份旅遊行程，一份可以讓你深入探訪河內的殖民地歷史；一份能讓你發現它活力、動感的現在，你也可以將兩張行程合二爲一，形成一份最佳的定製旅遊指南。
Then
河內之訪古SEE //Arches, Embellishments
參觀：建築和裝飾Architecture is the most visible legacy of the colonial period in Hanoi. Styles that emerged more than a century ago still influence current designs, but for the real deal, head to the old French quarter and the embassy district. Take an architectural tour with a local company like Hidden Hanoi -- or let 'Vignettes of French Culture in Hanoi,' a slim paperback produced by the group Friends of Vietnamese Heritage, guide you. (It's available on Amazon.)
建築是河內最明顯的殖民時期遺產。一個多世紀以前的建築風格依然對當前的設計發揮着影響，但要看到貨真價實的東西，直接去老的法國人聚居區及使館區。遊客可以參加“河內祕密之旅”(Hidden Hanoi)等當地機構組織的河內建築之旅，或者讓《河內的法國文化點滴》(Vignettes of French Culture in Hanoi)這本由“越南傳統文化保護友人”組織(Friends of Vietnamese Heritage)製作的小冊子帶你遊覽。（這本書在亞馬遜網站(Amazon)有售）Early colonial buildings, like the post office at 1 Le Thach St., had tall, arched windows and slate mansard roofs. Plans -- and even materials -- were usually imported from France, and the structures trapped heat in summer and water during torrential rains. But designs quickly evolved -- the Palais de Justice, finished in 1906, had peaked roofs to shed rain; the 1919 Lycee Albert Sarraut had hallways along outside walls as a buffer against the heat.
早期的殖民地建築，比如黎石街1號(1 Le Thach St.)的郵政大樓，都擁有高挑的拱形窗戶和復折式石板屋頂。設計方案甚至是建築材料通常來自法國，這種結構在夏天難以散熱，下暴雨時還會水流不暢。不過房屋的設計很快得到了改進——1906年完工的法院大樓(the Palais de Justice)就修成了尖屋頂，以便下雨時排水；1919年修建的阿爾貝·薩羅學校(Lycee Albert Sarraut)沿外 修建了走廊，利於防暑降溫。The Art Nouveau, neoclassical and Machine Age styles that later became popular in France also migrated to Hanoi; they can be seen in mansions that now house embassies and government offices in the relatively quiet Ba Dinh District. Villas along Ba Huyen Street and the north side of Chu Van An Street boast Machine Age hallmarks like flat roofs, porthole windows and geometric window screens.
後來流行於法國的新藝術派(The Art Nouveau)、新古典主義(neoclassical)和機器時代(Machine Age)的風格也遷移到了河內，這類建築在相對清靜的巴亭區(Ba Dinh District)還能看到，如今已被用作使館和政府機關的辦公大樓。巴玄街(Ba Huyen Street)上和朱文安街(Chu Van An)北側的別墅都留有“機器時代”風格的標誌性印記，諸如平屋頂、舷窗式窗戶及幾何形狀窗格。Perhaps the most architecturally significant buildings were built in the 1920s by Ernest Hebrard, a scholar and archaeologist who merged French building styles with Asian details. The roof of his University of Indochina building is edged with Asian-inspired patterns; part of it is tiered like a pagoda. Mr. Hebrard also incorporated traditional details such as carved screens and the roof beams seen in temples into the facades of later buildings, like the Bureau des Finances and what is now the National History Museum.
最具建築學意義的建築也許是20世紀20年代由學者兼考古學家埃內斯特·艾伯(Ernest Hebrard)建造的，他把法式建築風格與亞洲的建築細節融於一體。由他設計的印度支那大學(University of Indochina)大樓，屋頂邊緣鑲嵌的是亞洲元素的圖案，有的部分像佛塔一樣層層疊疊。艾伯還把雕屏和寺廟裏見到的那種頂樑等傳統細節元素融入了後來建築（比如當年的財政局(the Bureau des Finances)、如今的國家歷史博物館(the National History Museum)）的外立面中。SHOP //Prizes from the Past
購物：來自過去的獎賞Intent on feeling at home in Indochina, as they called it, French colonists imported everything from furniture to jewelry from Europe. Authentic examples can be tough to find, but 54 Traditions, a five-story shop that focuses on antiques related to Vietnamese minorities, also offers up colonial relics like silk fans and tribal jewelry that incorporates old French coins. Over time, local artisans also learned to make French-style goods, including embroidered linens. Bach Thi Ngai, the octogenarian owner of Tan My, learned some of her patterns from French customers as a child. Her shop sells bedding, table linens and clothing stitched with traditional white-on-white floral motifs as well as colorful modern designs.
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street JournalMoniq by M品牌服裝爲了在他們所稱的印度支那感覺像自家一樣，法國殖民者從歐洲舶來了從傢俱到珠寶的所有東西。真品可能很難再找到，但一家五層樓高、專門經營越南少數民族古董的商店54 Traditions也出售絹扇和嵌有法國舊幣的少數民族首飾之類的殖民時期紀念品。久而久之，當地的手工藝人也學會了製作包括亞麻繡品在內的法式商品。服飾店Tan My 80多歲的老闆Bach Thi Ngai就是兒時從法國顧客那兒學會了一些花色圖案。她的商店經營牀上用品、桌布、縫有傳統白色提花圖案的服裝以及五顏六色的現代款服飾。If it's fashion you're after, Thu Madelin at Moniq by M, on the western side of Hoan Kiem Lake, takes cues from overseas vintage stores. You can find 1950s-ish tops, polka-dot dresses and high-collared classics -- plus a punky edge.
如果你追求的是時尚，還劍湖(Hoan Kiem Lake)西側Moniq by M服裝店的Thu Madelin從國外的復古商店獲得了啓示。你可以找到20世紀50年代樣式的上衣、圓點圖案服飾和高領古典服裝，外加濃厚的朋克色彩。EAT //Frogs Legs and Foie Gras
美食：青蛙腿和鵝肝醬European interlopers in Vietnam introduced novel cooking styles and foods -- like coffee, baked goods, and even vegetables like cabbage and carrots -- that became essential to Vietnamese cuisine. For a literal taste of the French era, join local businessmen at Le Beaulieu, the French restaurant housed in the Hotel Metropole Hanoi, which has been serving classic French dishes like frogs legs and beef Rossini since it opened more than a century ago. Locals of all ages head to cafes for bracingly strong Vietnamese coffee (often flooding it with condensed milk). Cafe Mai, a no-frills spot open since the 1930s, still serves some of the tastiest brew in town. Near the Hanoi Cathedral, the Hanoi Social Club, a newer coffee shop with tile floors and colorful walls, draws a young, artistic crowd. And for a bite that illustrates how important the French influence has been on local food, it's hard to beat a banh mi sandwich, a Vietnamese standard made up of classic French ingredients -- baguette and pate, ham or egg. They're served at street stalls around the city and at the bare-bones sandwich shop Cafe 252, which offers a wide variety of fillings served Hanoi-style, without excessive flavorings or garnishes.
闖入越南的歐洲人帶來了新的廚藝風格和美食——比如咖啡、焙烤食品、甚至像捲心菜和胡蘿蔔之類的蔬菜——這些已經成爲越南菜不可或缺的一部分。要想實實在在品嚐法國殖民時期的美食，遊客可以像當地商人一樣來到Le Beaulieu餐廳，這家位於河內大都會酒店(Hotel Metropole Hanoi)的法國餐廳自從一個世紀前開業以來一直就供應青蛙腿和羅西尼牛肉等法國菜餚。各種年齡的當地人都喜歡到咖啡館去喝強力提神的濃厚越南咖啡（經常要加入大量的煉乳）。Cafe Mai是20世紀30年代就已開張的一家廉價咖啡館，這裏的咖啡依然是全城口味最好的。在河內大教堂(the Hanoi Cathedral)附近，Hanoi Social Club這家年代更新、瓷磚地面、彩色 面的咖啡店吸引了文藝青年人羣。要想找一種食物證明法國對當地飲食產生了多麼重大的影響，沒有什麼東西能和越南法式三明治(banh mi sandwich)相匹敵了，這種越南的標誌性食品用經典的法國原材料做成——法式長棍麪包和肉餡、火腿或雞蛋。這種三明治在河內滿城的食品攤上以及簡 的Cafe 252三明治店都有出售。Cafe 252三明治店有河內風格的各種餡料，沒有添加過多的調味品或配菜。SLEEP //In Classic Quarters
住宿：經典住宅區When the Greek Revival-style Hotel Metropole opened in 1901, it quickly became the preferred address for fancy visitors, from European royals to celebrities like Charlie Chaplin and Noel Coward. Its boulangerie sold French pastries, the bar offered French wine and the hotel hosted jazz nights and showed films. Now the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi, it looks much the same on the outside, with square columns and a scalloped metal awning, and still exudes old-school elegance. The lobby, the bar (which serves some of the best cocktails in the city) and guest rooms in the original wing boast period-appropriate details like teak shutters, ceiling fans and traditional Vietnamese porcelain.
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street Journal舊時的完美 河內索菲特傳奇大都會酒店(The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi)，1901年開業。當希臘復興風格(Greek Revival-style)的大都會酒店(Hotel Metropole)1901年開業的時候，它很快成爲了上流貴賓的首選下榻之處，無論是歐洲的皇室還是查理·卓別林(Charlie Chaplin)和諾埃爾·科沃德(Noel Coward)那樣的社會名流，都紛紛選擇這裏。那時的酒店面包房銷售法式甜餡餅，酒吧供應法國葡萄酒，酒店當年還舉辦爵士之夜音樂會、播放電影。酒店現在已變身河內索菲特傳奇大都會酒店(the Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi)，從外面看幾乎和過去別無二致，舊韻依存的方柱與扇形的金屬遮陽棚仍然流露出老派建築的典雅。舊樓一側的大堂、酒吧（提供全市最好的一些雞尾酒）和客房保存了柚木百葉窗、吊扇及傳統的越南陶瓷等與殖民年代相稱的風格細節。Now
河內之探今SEE //Au Courant Art
參觀：新潮的藝術Hanoi has been a cultural center as far back as the Bronze Age; to really get a sense of its modern persona, explore it through art rather than architecture. (An exception: the Hanoi Museum in the Tu Liem District; the 4-year-old inverted pyramid by German architecture firm gmp, gives visitors the sense of floating over the landscape.)
河內自遙遠的青銅時代(the Bronze Age)就一直是文化中心，要真正瞭解它的現代形象，遊客應該通過藝術而非建築去發現這座城市。（例外：慈廉區(the Tu Liem District)的河內博物館(the Hanoi Museum) ，這幢由德國GMP建築師事務所設計、建成四年的倒金字塔建築給遊客一種漂浮於景緻之上的感覺。）In the 1980s, Hanoi artists began treating Vietnamese subjects with Western techniques like oil painting. 'It was the first generation in hundreds of years . . . pretty much allowed to do what they wanted,' said Suzanne Lecht, owner of Art Vietnam Gallery, which shows contemporary work. Galleries independent of the government emerged in the 1990s. Vu Dan Tan and his wife, Natalia Kraevskaia, founded Salon Natasha, in their pink home in the Hoan Kiem District. Ms. Kraevskaia now uses it to exhibit the work of her late husband, including his masks made from cigarette boxes. In 1998, artist Nguyen Manh Duc opened Nha San Studio, in his traditional Muong stilt-house in the Ba Dinh District. It now showcases the Nha San Collective, a group of contemporary artists that includes Mr. Nguyen's 29-year-old daughter, Nguyen Phuong Linh. (Works like the 'Dust Project,' vials of dust collected around the world, have earned her an international reputation.) Manzi gallery and cafe shows creations from the past decade, such as Nguyen Minh Thanh's serene self-portraits.
在20世紀80年代，河內的藝術家開始用油畫等西方技巧表達越南的主題。“這是數百年來第一代……幾乎完全可以隨心做事的人，”展出當代作品的Art Vietnam Gallery畫廊的老闆蘇珊·萊希特(Suzanne Lecht)說。獨立於政府的民間畫廊在20世紀90年代開始出現，Vu Dan Tan和他的妻子納塔利婭·克雷夫斯卡婭(Natalia Kraevskaia)在還劍區(Hoan Kiem District)他們的粉色住宅中創建了Salon Natasha畫廊。克雷夫斯卡婭現在用它來展出她已故丈夫的作品，包括他用香菸盒做的面具。1998年，藝術家Nguyen Manh Duc在巴亭區他的芒族傳統吊腳屋裏開辦了工作室Nha San Studio。該工作室如今陳列的是當代藝術家羣體Nha San Collective的作品，其中包括Nguyen Manh Duc 29歲的女兒Nguyen Phuong Linh。（用小瓶收集世界各地塵埃的《塵埃工程》(Dust Project)等作品已經讓她贏得了國際聲譽。）畫廊咖啡廳Manzi展出的是過去十年創作的作品，比如Nguyen Minh Thanh安詳的自畫像。SHOP //Forward Fashion
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street Journal聚焦未來 Rue des Chats精品服裝店購物：前衛的時尚Though tour promoters would have you believe that all Vietnamese women bike through the city in slim-cut ao dai dresses and conical hats, it's not quite the case. Rue des Chats, in an upscale area in the Hoan Kiem District, offers silk tops, sheath dresses and flowery prints by designers Anhuong Tran and Le Minh. The team behind Boo Skateshop in Hang Gai, draws from current American trends.
雖然旅遊推廣人士會讓你相信所有的越南女性會穿着修身的傳統襖代裝(ao dai)、頭戴斗笠騎車穿行在城市之中，但事實並不一定如此。位於還劍區一個高檔消費區的Rue des Chats有售Anhuong Tran和Le Minh等設計師出品的絲綢上衣、緊身連衣裙和印花服裝。杭蓋街(Hang Gai)上的Boo Skateshop服裝店背後的團隊吸取了當今美國流行趨勢中的時尚元素。EAT //Fusion of the Future
美食：未來的融合Just as French ingredients have influenced Vietnamese dishes, Vietnamese ingredients and techniques are inspiring a generation of French chefs cooking in Hanoi. At La Badiane, in a refurbished French villa, Benjamin Rascalou serves foie gras with roasted mango slices, and crab remoulade with ginger oil and local asparagus. Didier Corlou of La Verticale offers up slices of duck carpaccio and melon, flavored with five-spice. Taste a twist on traditional ha cao dumplings -- shrimp-and-pork ravioli in fish stock -- at Pots 'n Pans, a collaboration between Australian and Hanoian chefs in a brick and concrete space.
Aaron Joel Santos for The Wall Street JournalLa Verticale餐廳的一道菜正如法國的食材對越南菜產生了影響一樣，越南食材和烹飪技術正激發着新一代在河內的法國廚師。修葺一新的法國別墅裏的餐廳La Badiane，邦雅曼·拉斯卡魯(Benjamin Rascalou)推出了烤芒果片配鵝肝醬、以及用生薑油和當地蘆筍做的蟹黃醬。La Verticale餐廳的迪迪埃·科盧(Didier Corlou)獻上的是五香甜瓜生鴨片。遊客還可以在Pots 'n Pans餐廳嚐嚐傳統的蝦餃——在魚湯中烹煮的蝦和豬肉陷水餃，這是澳大利亞與河內廚師在一處磚混結構的房子裏合開的餐廳。SLEEP //A Modern View
住宿：現代景觀Even as Hanoi becomes a contemporary capital, it looks to its past for inspiration. At the Melia Hanoi hotel, murals of local temples share space with contemporary art. Guestrooms look out onto Chinese, French and glass-and-steel buildings, all mixing together in the heart of the city.
儘管河內正日益成爲一座現代化的都城，它仍然還在從過去尋找靈感。在河內美麗雅酒店(the Melia Hanoi hotel)，當地寺廟中的壁畫與當代藝術齊聚一堂，從客房向外看，中式、法式和玻璃鋼架結構的建築在市中心交相輝映。
