達人遊記:西方旅客遊臺灣金門
I was standing on top of a cliff looking at a loudspeaker the size of a small block of flats facing out to sea. There was music playing, the woman’s voice so loud it hurt my ears. But this was down to the vastness of the speaker, not the song, which was plaintive and mellifluous and heartbreaking, even though I couldn’t understand a word.
我站立在懸崖頂上，眺望着面朝大海、足有小型公寓樓大的一個大喇叭。喇叭里正播放着歌曲，女歌手的歌聲震耳欲聾。但這主要拜巨型喇叭、而非歌曲本身所賜。雖然我壓根聽不懂一句歌詞，但歌聲哀怨而又甜美、十分傷感。The music stopped. The woman talked, in Mandarin, the recording crackling. “Dear friends in mainland China,” she said, my guide, Chifa Chen, translating. “I am happy to be here in Kinmen. I hope you can share the same freedom. Please, just come here and realise your dreams.”
突然音樂聲停了，隨之聽到的是女歌手的普通話聲音，錄音吱吱作響：“親愛的大陸朋友，”她播道，我的導遊陳赤發（Chifa Chen，音譯）爲我一句句翻譯。“我幸福地生活在金門(Kinmen)，希望你能同享自由，請到我們這邊來，你會夢想成真。”I turned to face the sea, following the woman’s voice. Across the strait, just six miles away, through the diaphanous smog, I could see the ghostly skyscrapers of Xiamen city in mainland China. The voice, Chen told me, was the late Teresa Teng’s, Taiwanese folk singer and soldiers’ sweetheart, whose patriotic ballads of the 1970s, blasted nightly across the strait, were a potent propaganda tool in the cold war between Taiwan and China. Despite being banned at one point, Teng enjoyed huge popularity in China, where lovestruck fans christened her “Little Deng” (on the mainland, her name was spelt in the same way as China’s then leader). “It is said that Deng Xiaoping ruled China by day,” said Chen. “But Deng the singer ruled China by night.”
順着女播音員的聲音，我轉向大海。六英里外的海峽那邊，透過薄薄的雲霧，依稀能看到大陸那邊廈門市(Xiamen) 的摩天樓羣。陳告訴我，廣播裏的女聲是已故臺灣歌星鄧麗君(Teresa Teng)，她是國軍士兵心中的偶像；她在上世紀70年代演唱的那些愛國民歌，每天夜晚都會播到海峽那邊的大陸，是大陸與臺灣冷戰時期強有力的宣傳工具。儘管鄧麗君的歌曲曾經遭禁，但她在大陸是家喻戶曉的明星，那些熱戀中的年輕歌迷尊稱她爲“小鄧”（在大陸，她與當時的中國領導人鄧小平(Deng Xiaoping)同姓）。“都說大陸白天由鄧小平統治，”陳說。“但到了晚上則是鄧麗君‘統治’。”
I had flown 200 miles west from Taiwan’s capital city Taipei to Kinmen, a bow-tie-shaped lump of granite gneiss, just 58 square miles in all. The Taiwan Strait is studded with tiny islands, familiar to Taiwanese holidaymakers but virtually off the radar of western tourists. I was to spend a week exploring a few of them.
我從臺灣首府臺北(Taipei)坐了200英里飛機抵達金門(Kinmen)，這座蝴蝶結形狀的花崗片麻岩小島總面積只有58平方英里。臺灣海峽小島林立，臺灣的度假者對它們耳熟能詳，但西方遊客對此卻知之甚少。我打算花一週時間，尋芳探幽一番。Kinmen was the first place Chiang Kai-shek’s Nationalist forces landed and claimed in their 1949 retreat from Mao Zedong’s Communist regime. At its closest point, it is just over a mile from the mainland. For the next 30-odd years Kinmen was shelled remorselessly by China; and the cliff-top sirens did their thing.
1949年，蔣介石(Chiang Kai-shek)的國民黨軍隊(Nationalist forces)被毛澤東的共產黨軍隊打敗後，潰退後的首個立足點就是金門。金門離大陸最近的地方只有一英里，在接下來的30多年時間裏，金門不斷遭到大陸炮火的無情打擊，懸崖頂上的大喇叭就是對大陸作宣傳之用的。But rapprochement eventually followed and, in 1995, Taiwan designated Kinmen a national park, embarking on a massive programme to turn the once off-limits military zone, one of the most heavily fortified places on earth, into a tourist destination – with its cold war history one of the key draws. And the tourists they mainly want to attract? The newly wealthy Chinese, of course: what sweet irony.
但兩岸最終走向和解，1995年，臺灣把金門設爲國家公園，並啓動大規模的開發計劃，把昔日的軍事禁區、這個地球上固若金湯的堡壘打造成旅遊勝地——把國共冷戰時期的歷史作爲主要旅遊景點。. . .
. . .We drove through tunnels of horsetail trees, swishing in the breeze, a wave of noise from the cicadas, like squealing car tyres, accompanying us. These trees, very wind resistant, explained Chen, were planted by the military to reforest the island, which had been denuded by shipbuilding dating back to the Ming era. We passed a large granite statue, flowing red cape around its shoulders, incense burning in its lap – a wind lion god, said Chen, one of 70 erected to protect the island from the violent winds that rip through the strait.
我們驅車穿過長滿馬尾樹的坑道，馬尾樹在微風中嗖嗖作響，耳畔傳來知了的陣陣噪叫，就象汽車輪胎輾過地面發出的那種長而尖的聲音。陳對我說，這些馬尾樹特別能防風，軍方種它們，是想讓金門島綠樹成林，從明代起，島上的樹就被砍伐一空，用來建造船隻。我們穿過一座巨大的花崗岩雕塑，肩上披着紅色的披肩，迎風飄展，膝蓋前面香菸嫋嫋——陳說，這就是風獅爺(wind lion god)，全金門共有70座，先人樹此目的是讓金門免遭臺灣海峽狂風之肆虐。We stopped at Maestro Wu’s knife factory. From 1958 to 1978, the Chinese dropped nearly 5m shells on Kinmen. Many of them have ended up at Maestro Wu’s, after it was discovered that the high-grade steel made for superb kitchen knives.
我們在金合利鋼刀廠(Maestro Wu’s knife factory)停下車來，從1958年至1978年，中國大陸落在金門島上的炮彈差不多有500萬發。發現這些高質量的鋼可製成質量上乘的廚房刀具後，很多炮彈最終成了鋼刀廠的用料。I met the current maestro, Wu Tsong-shan, 56, who had followed his father and grandfather into the business. He selected a shell from the huge pile in the workshop, cut out a section with a blowtorch, then hammered and polished it and hammered it again. Within 20 minutes, he was handing me my very own knife, made from a Chinese bomb.
我見到了鋼刀廠如今的制刀大師吳增棟(Wu Tsong-shan)，他今年56歲，隨自己父親與爺爺學藝後進入此行。他從車間的一大堆廢炮彈中挑出一枚，用噴燈切割下一段後，不斷敲打、打磨，而後再次錘打。不到20分鐘，吳增棟大師就把用大陸炮彈製成的鋼刀遞到了我手上。We walked around Kincheng, Kinmen’s sleepy little main town, along Mofan Street, flanked by 1920s red-brick buildings with arched front doors in the Japanese style. At the Chef Huang restaurant, we drank bitter herbal tea made from the luo han guo gourd, ate beef jerky infused with cumin, and then beef noodle soup, scarlet red and powered by yeast and chillies. Kinmen’s beef is famous throughout Taiwan, the cattle being fed on the brewing leftovers from the potent and equally famous 58 per cent proof sorghum-based kaoliang liquor that is made here.
我們在金城(Kincheng，見右圖)裏轉，這座寧靜小鎮是金門的主要集鎮，我們沿着模範街(Mofan Street)轉，兩邊是上世紀20年代、拱形大門的日本式紅磚洋房。在黃家酒樓(Chef Huang)，我們喝了由羅漢果沖泡的苦茶，品嚐了孜然牛肉乾，還點了牛肉麪，酵母發過的麪條放上辣子後，通紅通紅。金門牛肉全臺灣知名，它的牛是用本地釀造的58度烈性高粱酒酒糟所餵養出來的。We drove around the island, along narrow hedgerowed country lanes, where hoopoes, Kinmen’s emblematic striped bird, stood in our way, their feathered crowns defiantly erect. We stopped at a sandbank peppered with nesting holes, and watched the air pulse iridescent blue as hundreds of bee-eaters swooped around us. We drove past mangrove swamps, alive with huge black-and-white common mime butterflies and fiddler crabs, past fields of wild mint and peanuts, and then emerged once more at the coast, where a long, palm-fringed beach could have had you in the Caribbean were it not for the neat rows of steel spikes embedded in concrete that covered its entirety and a giant sign facing the sea reading, “Destroy the Evil Communists.” “There’s a local saying that Kinmen is a garden built upon a fortress,” said Chen, before adding, reassuringly, that they’d finally cleared the last of the mines.
我們沿着兩連灌木籬笆牆的狹窄小道驅車瀏覽金門島，路兩旁不斷有帶標誌性花紋的金門戴勝鳥飛起，它們的羽毛冠醒目地豎立着。我們在一塊沙丘邊停下車，只見上面密佈巢穴，成千上萬的食蜂戴勝鳥在飛落下來時，四周的空氣都顫動着閃亮的藍色。我們驅車經過紅樹林沼澤時，到處可見巨大的黑白色斑鳳蝶與招潮蟹，它們飛（爬）過大片的野薄荷與花生地，不一會兒又在海灘邊現形。在棕櫚樹點綴的長長海灘上，要不是看見混凝土上密密麻麻布滿的一排排整齊鋼釘，以及看見面向大海、寫着“打敗共匪”的大標語牌，真以爲自己正身處加勒比海呢！“當地人曾說金門是建在碉堡上的花園，”陳對我說，然後又以肯定的語氣補充說已經把最後所有的地雷都排乾淨了。That night we stayed in Qionglin, an old village whose ubiquitous sweeping swallowtail roofs were a symbol of its former wealth and status. Approached from the hillside above, Qionglin had looked like a vast scaled monster. Our B&B was built in the 1850s but modelled on the classic Ming-era vernacular. Wrapped around a small courtyard, it dripped with pendulous lanterns, the gables engraved with vivid peonies and birds and golden dragons. The ancient hardwood doors to my bedroom creaked with age as I opened them.
當天晚上，我們住在瓊林古村(Qionglin)，這兒隨處可見掃燕尾屋頂的房屋，它們曾是本地財富與身份的標誌。從上面的山坡來到這裏，整個村莊酷似巨型怪物。我們入住的旅館（含早餐）建於19世紀50年代，但仍採用典型的明代民居建築風格。整個旅館圍小院子而建，懸掛着燈籠，山牆上雕刻着栩栩如生的牡丹、鳥以及金龍。打開房間時，它的硬木老門還吱吱作響。We went out for a dinner of squid balls and fried sandworms, a Kinmen delicacy, and a few shots of kaoliang, downed in one from thimble-sized glasses, its throat-stripping effects somewhat but not entirely annulled by its traditional accompaniment of dried black beans.
我們到街上去享用金門本地的美味（魷魚丸子與炸沙蟲），並喝了幾小酒盅高粱酒，一口喝下去，只覺得嗓子眼有點兒燒，儘管釀酒時加入幹黑豆，但酒勁仍挺大。After dinner we walked back through Qionglin, slightly giddy from the kaoliang, along alleyways so narrow I had to turn sideways, the languid, humid night suffused with jasmine, the swallowtail roofs silhouetted against the moonlight. Old men drew water from street wells. Women sat under flickering lamps shucking the wild oysters they’d harvested from the beach.
吃完飯後，我們漫步於瓊林村，步行回旅館，酒勁上來後，腦子覺得有些飄飄然，小巷太過狹窄，於是就轉向旁邊的路，慵懶、潮溼的夜晚瀰漫着茉莉花的香味，在月光的襯托下，掃燕尾屋頂的輪廓清晰可見。老人們從街道的井裏汲水，女人們則坐在搖曳的燈光下，正在去除海灘上撿拾的野生牡蠣外殼。The next day, we saw more of Kinmen’s cold war legacy. First, we walked through the elaborate network of cramped tunnels the people of Qionglin dug under the village to escape the Chinese shells, and then to Zhaishan where, in the early 1960s, the military dug a 375-metre tunnel out of solid granite, filled it with seawater and used it to shelter its navy from bombardment. Ernst Stavro Blofeld would have felt very much at home.
第二天，我們親眼目睹了金門在國共冷戰期間的更多遺物。首先，我們穿行於密密麻麻的狹窄坑道網，這是由瓊林村村民當時挖掘的，旨在躲避共產黨軍隊炮火的攻襲，而後又參觀了翟山坑道(Zhaishan)，上世紀60年代，國民黨軍隊在堅硬的花崗岩中，挖掘了一條375米長的坑道，並灌滿海水，以用它來保護自己海軍免受炮火攻擊。布魯弗（Ernst Stavro Blofeld，007系列電影中的反面人物，譯者注）看到這裏，定會覺得特別親切。But Kinmen is about more than war. We drove past more pagodas and lakes brimming with birds – Kinmen has more than 300 species, resident and migratory – and more exquisite old Fujian villages – Shuitou, Jhushan, Shanshou – and then through forests of Madagascar almond and golden flame trees, spotting the wind lions as we went. We passed a vast building, nearing completion. It was, Chen told me, a five-star hotel and shopping mall, due to open at the end of this year. In a sign of ever-increasing closeness between the two countries, it was the first hotel and mall in Taiwan to be funded by a Chinese property developer. It looked terribly out of place.
但金門不僅只是反映戰爭，我們驅車經過很多佛塔與湖泊，上面停滿了各種鳥（金門有300多種留鳥與候鳥），還有衆多精緻的閩南古村落——水頭村(Shuitou)、竹山村(Jhushan)、山後村(Shanshou)，然後又穿過小葉欖仁樹與金黃色鳳凰木的樹林，不時能看到矗立的風獅雕塑。快到旅程終點時，我們經過一幢規模宏大的建築。陳告訴我這是一家五星級賓館與大型購物商場，它預定今年底正式開張。作爲兩岸關係越來越緊密的標誌，這是首家由大陸地產商開發的酒店與商場，但它顯得不倫不類。In the Taipei Times, Li Wo-shi, Kinmen’s county commissioner, was proposing the island become a duty-free destination, integrating travel and shopping, better to detain the Chinese holidaymakers from just across the water, who currently arrived in Kinmen by ferry from Xiamen but flew straight out again to Taipei. The islanders, Wo-Shi had been quoted as saying, should have a hard think about this. Chen already had – about the impact this would have on lovely little Kinmen – and he was worried.
金門縣長李沃士(Li Wo-shi)在《臺北時報》(Taipei Times)上撰文，提議把金門島變爲免稅區，集旅遊與購物於一身，以更好地吸引一水之隔的大陸觀光客，對方如今從廈門坐渡輪來金門，但去臺北卻直接從廈門坐飛機。引用李沃士縣長的話說，金門島的居民真應該好好反思。此舉對美麗小島金門的影響，陳本人想到了，他對此憂心忡忡。I flew east to Penghu, just 30 miles from the coast of Taiwan. Penghu comprises 90-odd islands – only a quarter of which are inhabited – formed from volcanic eruptions 17 million years ago. On the main archipelago, four islands forming a horseshoe and connected by bridges, I wandered around Makung, the pretty seaside capital, lost in a delicious walking reverie. I watched the locals praying at the Matsu Temple, dating from the late 16th century, with its stunning woodcarvings, sweeping swallowtail roof and a palpable sense of the eternal. Then I continued along Central Street, Makung’s oldest, winding and brick-paved, past Confucian temples and ancestral shrines.
我隨後坐飛機，趕往距臺灣本島只有30英里的澎湖(Penghu，右圖爲澎湖的海岸線)。澎湖由90多個島嶼構成，形成於1700萬年前的火山噴發，其中只有四分之一的島嶼有人居住。呈馬蹄形的澎湖主羣島由四座島嶼構成，相互之間用橋樑連結。我漫步於澎湖縣治所在地、美麗的海濱小城馬公市(Makung)，不禁浮想聯翩。我看到當地人在媽祖廟(Matsu Temple)裏祈禱，掃燕尾屋頂的媽祖廟始建於16世紀末，廟裏的木雕工藝巧奪天工，寧靜悠長的歷史感觸手可及。我沿着中華路(Central Street)繼續前行，這是馬公市最古老的街道，蜿蜒曲折，均用磚頭鋪就，路過了好幾座孔廟與祠堂。I drove out of town, first south, to Shanshui beach, an expanse of golden sand I had virtually to myself, and then north to Erkan, a township of 50 or so exquisite Fujian-style houses with coral walls dating from the early 20th century. There I drank cold almond tea and ate vivid vermilion-coloured ice-cream made from cactus, a Penghu speciality, and watched the villagers roll the incense sticks they sell to tourists.
我驅車出城，先是向南來到山水海堤(Shanshui beach)，一望無際的金色沙灘上就我一個人，然後驅車往北，趕往二崁村(Erkan)，那裏坐落着大約50幢珊瑚牆打造、始建於20世紀初的閩南風格精緻民居。在那兒，我喝了冰涼的杏仁茶，又品味仙人掌製作的硃紅色新鮮冰淇淋，這是澎湖本地的特色，還觀看了當地村民製作兜售給遊客的佛香。The next day I took a ferry to Chipei Island, barely two miles wide, and walked along the Chipei Tail, a great tongue of golden sand jutting out into the water. It was quite deserted on this summer’s day but, come September, when the 50-knot winds blast down the Taiwan Strait from the north, it will be packed with the windsurfers who flock to Penghu, “the Canary Islands of the Orient”, from all corners.
第二天，我乘渡輪前往吉貝嶼(Chipei Tail)，這塊美麗的金色狹長沙灘一直伸向大海之中。炎炎夏日，這兒遊客稀少，但一到九月，每小時50哩的北風颳過臺灣海峽時，海灘上就會擠滿從世界各地蜂擁而至的衝浪好手，這兒被譽爲“東方的加那利羣島”(the Canary Islands of the Orient)。I took a ferry south, a tiny boat in big swells, past Tongpan, barricaded by walls of basalt columns, to Chimei Island, where I hired a scooter and rode along the clifftops, looking down at the churning water and the Two Hearts Stone Weir, an ancient fish trap that forms the backdrop to many a Taiwanese honeymoon photo. And then on to tiny Wang’an, where I rode past abandoned ancient dwellings, more fabulous, deserted beaches and grassy hillsides carpeted with vivid orange and yellow firewheels.
我又乘渡船南行，小船在洶涌波濤中穿過玄武岩柱林立的桶盤嶼(Tongpan)，抵達了七美島(Chimei Island)。我在島上僱了一輛小型摩托車，然後沿着懸崖頂一路騎行，縱覽大海中的漩渦與“雙心石滬”( Two Hearts Stone Weir)，這個古老的捕魚陷阱是許多臺灣蜜月度假照片的背景。然後我又坐船前往小小的望安島(Wang’an)，在這兒，我看到廢棄的古代聚居地、更多美麗空曠的海灘、以及鬱鬱蔥蔥的山坡，山坡上長滿了惹人可愛的橙色與黃色“風火輪”樹。My guidebook directed me to the most famous sight on Wang’an, a “footprint” in a piece of basalt halfway up a hill which, legend has it, was formed when Lu Dongbin, one of China’s eight immortals, squatted here to urinate. It seemed a long way to come to look at the footprint of a god taking a leak but as I sat there and looked across the island – wild, remote, utterly unspoilt – I was glad I had.
我的旅遊手冊指引我前往望安島上最知名的景點——位於半山腰玄武岩石上的一個“腳印”，傳說這是八仙中的呂洞賓(Lu Dongbin)蹲此小便留下的。看來我得爬很長距離才能看到呂洞賓的“聖蹟”，但我坐在那兒眺望望安小島（它無人居住、地處偏僻、完全保持原始風貌）那頭時，幸運的是我真正看到了所謂的“聖蹟”。On my last day in Penghu, I walked along the Makung harbour front. It was Dragon Boat racing day, and the locals were paddling their craft up and down. It was delightfully restrained, more like a school sports day than the razzmatazz of the same event going on at the same time just across the Taiwan Strait in Hong Kong.
在澎湖的最後一天，我沿着馬公港口漫步。今天是端午節(Dragon Boat)賽龍舟日，當地人奮力划槳，龍舟在浪花中上下翻飛，活動一板一眼，看得賞心悅目，與其說象海峽對岸香港舉辦的龍舟賽那樣活力四射，倒不如說更象一場普通的校運會。That same day, the China Times had run a story about Penghu. In 2009, the islands had held a referendum on whether to allow the building of casinos – as with Kinmen, better to attract Chinese tourists. There was also talk about building huge beach resorts. The referendum had been narrowly defeated, causing proposed investment in the islands to be slashed. Now, according to the Times, the pro-casino group was gathering signatures again for a second public vote, confident this time it would win.
同一天，《中國時報》(China Times )登載了一則發生在澎湖的新聞。2009年，澎湖舉行了公投，以決定是否允許和金門一樣興建賭場，吸引大陸觀光客。另外還傳出興建大型海灘度假區的計劃。公投最後以微弱少數惜敗，結果讓計劃中的投資澎湖大幅削減。據《中國時報》報道，如今支持興建賭場的一派又在收集簽名，以舉辦第二次公投，他們堅信這一次一定能勝出。As I walked back to my hotel, along Makung’s quiet streets, past the old temples with swallows flitting in and out of the eaves, I wondered what Kinmen and Penghu would look like in 10 years’ time. I thought back to those plaintive cliff top exhortations, “Just come here and realise your dreams,” and wondered what Teresa Teng would make of it all.
我沿着僻靜的馬空街道步行回酒店、經過幾座古廟時，只見燕子飛進飛出，不禁納悶：10年後的金門與澎湖會變成啥模樣。我又想起懸崖上大喇叭裏的那些充滿哀傷語氣的勸詞：“到我們這邊來，你會夢想成真，”不知鄧麗君再世，會如何理解這一切？
