年最新流行色調: 璀璨蘭花紫
Move over, emerald. The color watchers at Pantone say the 'It' color of 2014 is a pinky purple known as 'radiant orchid.'
翡翠綠，請讓開。彩通(Pantone)的色彩觀察員稱，2014年的“流行”色彩將是一種名爲“璀璨蘭花紫”(radiant orchid)的粉紫色。Expect to see the peppy shade on everything from cardigans to coffee makers next year. Vibrant and inviting, it has enough warm tones to look good on most skin types, which makes it a natural for nail polish and lipstick. Pantone executives say that because it is nuanced and bold, the color suggests creativity and ingenuity, which may appeal to fashion-minded, tech-savvy customers in their 20s and 30s. The hue also offers a sharp contrast with emerald, Pantone's color of 2013.
拭目以待吧，明年這種明亮活潑的色調會出現在從羊毛開衫到咖啡機的各類物品上。它活力四射、吸人眼球，它的色調也足夠溫暖，適合大多數皮膚類型，所以它天生適合用於指甲油和脣彩。彩通的高管稱，這種色彩細膩又奔放，會讓人想起創造力與獨創性，可能會吸引年齡在20多歲和30多歲的注重時尚、精通科技的客戶。該色彩還與彩通提出的2013年度流行色彩翡翠綠形成鮮明對比。At a time when anything goes in fashion, Pantone's heavily marketed 'Color of the Year' announcement can raise eyebrows. These days, there is no 'It' hem length or cut or wash of jeans. So is there still any such thing as the color?
在一個什麼事情都融入時尚的時代，彩通大力推廣的“年度色彩”一說可能會引發質疑。現如今，褶邊長度、裁剪或牛仔水洗方式都沒有主打一說，那麼還會有像主打色彩這樣的事物嗎？
'Absolutely, there's an 'It' color for spring, ' says Ken Downing, fashion director for Neiman Marcus, firmly. 'It's pink.'
精品百貨店內曼·馬庫斯(Neiman Marcus)的時裝總監肯·唐寧(Ken Downing)說：“當然有，春季就有‘主打’色彩，它就是粉色。”Mr. Downing hasn't been working with Pantone on its color-of-the-year selection. But violet and purple clothes and accessories have been moving briskly at Neiman Marcus, making these shades the stores' top sellers, Mr. Downing says. As resort and spring fashion collections trickle in, hues are getting pinker. 'Women who follow fashion want to be wearing the color of the moment, ' he says. 'Truly, pink is the color.'
唐寧並未與彩通合作挑選年度色彩。但他表示紫羅蘭與紫色的時裝和配飾在內曼·馬庫斯一直賣得很快，使這些色調成爲各門店的暢銷品。由於度假系列和春季系列開始上市，時裝的色彩變得更粉嫩。他說：“緊跟時尚的女性希望穿上流行色彩，確實粉色就是流行色。”Spring 2014 fashion collections featured a preponderance of pinks and purples on the runways at Prada, Chanel and Dior, all labels that tend to influence other fashion designers. Pantone -- which is in the business of selling color swatches and advice to industries from autos to home decor -- closely watches these runways.
普拉達(Prada)、香奈兒(Chanel)和迪奧(Dior)的2014春季時裝系列T臺秀展示了大量粉色和紫色時裝，而所有這些品牌往往都會影響其他時裝設計師。從事銷售色卡業務併爲從汽車到家裝的各行各業提供建議的彩通會密切關注這些T臺秀。Pantone, owned by Washington, D.C.-based Danaher Corp., each year polls graphic, industrial, fashion and other designers around the world, as well as manufacturers and retailers, asking what colors they plan to use in coming seasons. A color committee made up of Pantone executives and clients makes a pick based on the surveys, sales of color swatches and its experts' opinions.
彩通是總部位於華盛頓的丹納赫公司(Danaher Corp.)的子公司，每一年它都會調查世界各地的平面設計師、工業設計師、時裝設計師及其他設計師以及製造商和零售商，詢問他們計劃在未來幾季採用什麼色彩。隨後，一個由彩通高管和客戶組成的色彩委員會會根據調查結果、色卡的銷售情況及其專家的意見來進行挑選。By the time Pantone unveils its color of the year, designs for the year ahead are already in the works. But given the company's insider access -- which amounts to a cheat sheet from style leaders -- its choice tends to show insight. Emerald really did turn out to be a big color last year, and so did the red-orange 'tangerine tango' the year before.
到彩通公佈其年度色彩之時，針對未來一年的設計已在準備當中。不過，考慮到該公司可接觸到內幕——這相當於來自時尚引領者的備忘單——它的選擇往往都是眼光很準的。比如說，事實證明翡翠綠確實是去年的大熱色彩，前年名爲“探戈橘”的橘紅色也是如此。This year, Pantone felt the best match for the warm hue it was seeing was 'radiant orchid, ' a color appearing in its color guide between 'iris orchid' and 'spring crocus.' Deeper shades of purple have been on the upswing as well; Sherwin-Williams recently announced its 2014 Color of the Year is a murky violet called 'exclusive plum.'
在今年，彩通覺得與它看好的暖色調最相配的是“璀璨蘭花紫”，該色彩在其色彩指南上介於“鳶尾藍”與“春季番紅花紫”之間。此外，色調更深的紫色也呈現出上行趨勢，美國塗料公司宣偉(Sherwin-Williams)就宣佈其年度色彩爲被稱爲“獨特紫紅”(exclusive plum)的濃郁紫羅蘭色。Housewares, cosmetics and packaging are already showing up in radiant orchid. Keurig, the Burlington, Vt.-based coffee-machine maker, is using the color on its $99 'mini plus' single-serving machine--its smallest--which is coming out in early February.
家居用品、化妝品與包裝產品已經開始以璀璨蘭花紫示人。佛蒙特州伯靈頓(Burlington)的咖啡機制造商Keurig在即將於2月初上市的99美元“超迷你”咖啡機上採用了該色彩。這款咖啡機是該公司體型最小的產品，每次可以製作一杯咖啡。Before committing to the colorful machines, Keurig tried out prototypes on consumers and buyers from major retailers. Testers asked people how they felt about the color on a beverage-brewing machine -- and if they could live with it for three years or more, a viable time frame for kitchen appliances, says David Sachs, Keurig's senior vice president of hot beverage systems.
在投入生產這些色彩繽紛的咖啡機之前，Keurig先測試了大型零售商的顧客與買家對樣品的反應。該公司負責熱飲系統的高級副總裁戴維·薩克斯(David Sachs)稱，測試人員會詢問他們對衝煮飲料的機器採用這種色彩有何感受——以及他們是否能使用它三年或更長時間，這也是比較切合實際的廚房電器的使用期限。The color leans feminine, and it may find more fans with two X chromosomes. Urban Outfitters used the color in a bedspread, and Anna Weatherley dinnerware comes in the shade as well. It's a daring color for men. Bold men might try it in a shirt -- solid or print -- while more timid types might just use it as an accent color in neckties and socks.
璀璨蘭花紫偏女性化，因此它或許會更受到女性的青睞。Urban Outfitters在一款牀單中採用了該色彩，Anna Weatherley的餐具也採用了這一色調。對於男性而言，它是一種大膽的色彩。敢於冒險的人或許會嘗試這一色調的T恤——純色或印花圖案的——而較爲膽怯的人可能只會在領帶和襪子上用到這種色調。Still, Keurig expects the color to sell well among men and women in their 20s and 30s, because they tend to be open-minded about style issues, from pedicures to pink percolators. It will also appeal to people interested in fashion and interior decoration, says Mr. Sachs. These happen to be the consumers to whom Keurig markets. 'We have very high hopes for radiant orchid based on what consumers have told us, ' he notes.
儘管如此，Keurig還是期望該色彩的咖啡機能在20多歲和30多歲的男性與女性顧客中熱賣，因爲此類人羣往往對從腳趾甲油到粉色過濾壺的各類時尚問題都比較開明。薩克斯說，它還會吸引對時尚和室內裝飾感興趣的人。這些顧客恰好是Keurig營銷的目標對象。他指出：“根據顧客提供給我們的反饋，我們對璀璨蘭花紫抱有很高期望。”French cosmetics giant Sephora considered using radiant orchid as a hair color, but backed off, deciding instead to focus on lips, cheeks, nails and eyes. Margarita Arriagata, Sephora's chief merchant, says the color speaks to a romantic trend that's currently on the upswing. 'It's a perfect nail color, ' she notes. 'And we tried the lipstick on every single skin tone. It's killer.'
法國化妝品巨頭絲芙蘭(Sephora)曾考慮採用璀璨蘭花紫用作一款染髮劑的顏色，但最終還是放棄，轉而決定只將其用於脣彩、腮紅、指甲油和眼影產品。該公司首席商務長瑪加麗塔·阿里亞加塔(Margarita Arriagata)稱，該色彩與當前逐漸高漲的浪漫潮流相吻合。她說：“它是完美的甲油色彩。而且我們在每一種膚色上都嘗試了該色彩的脣膏，它簡直無所不配。”Come next June and July, Old Navy will be shipping radiant orchid tops and dresses into its stores. The color hit a fashion sweet spot, appearing in high-fashion collections while not being so challenging that it would appeal only to fashionistas. 'With our customers, we're always looking for broadly appealing trends, ' says Jill Stanton, Old Navy's executive vice president of product and design.
Old Navy將於明年6月和7月將璀璨蘭花紫的上衣與裙裝運往各大門店。該色彩擊中了時尚甜蜜點，出現在一衆高級時裝系列中，而且不會因爲太具挑戰而只吸引時尚達人。Old Navy負責產品與設計的執行副總裁吉爾·斯坦頓(Jill Stanton)說：“連同我們的顧客一起，我們總是在尋找具有廣泛吸引力的潮流。”Pantone often chooses stop-you-in-your-tracks colors with hues of red or blue. Hot colors are eye-catching, which is what marketers are looking for; one might walk past a beige bathroom rug without a thought, but a radiant orchid rug will turn your head. But Pantone varies its color choices from year to year, because it wants them to feel fresh. Radiant orchid is at the opposite side of the color wheel from last year's emerald.
彩通常常選擇紅色調或藍色調中引人駐足的色彩。暖色調能吸人眼球，這正是營銷人員所期望的。人們也許會不假思索地從一張米黃色的浴室地毯旁走過，而一張璀璨蘭花紫的地毯會讓人回眸。彩通每年都會選擇不同的色彩，因爲它想讓它們具有新鮮感。璀璨蘭花紫與去年的翡翠綠在色輪中處於相反的位置。'In the marketplace, this is a good thing, ' says Leatrice Eiseman, a color consultant to brands and to Pantone, where she heads up the annual search for the Color of the Year. Emerald and radiant orchid actually look good together, Ms. Eiseman argues, but the one is such an about-face from the other that it's likely to encourage consumers to get out and shop in order to stay up to date.
多家品牌的色彩顧問萊亞特麗斯·艾斯曼(Leatrice Eiseman)說：“對於市場來說這是一件好事。”艾斯曼同時也是彩通的色彩顧問，並主持該公司一年一度的年度色彩搜尋工作。她認爲翡翠綠與璀璨蘭花紫搭配在一起其實很好看，但後者與前者截然不同，所以它可能會促使消費者出門購置該色彩的行頭以便跟上潮流。Ms. Eiseman hastens to note that odd color pairings are popular today. She declares this a new era in color, where people's clothes and even kitchen appliances are no longer matchy-matchy, and radiant orchid can share space on the counter with 2010's turquoise and other shades.
艾斯曼趕忙又指出，現如今奇特的色彩搭配非常流行。她說現在是一個新的色彩時代，人們的衣着甚至是廚房電器都不再是搭配一致的，璀璨蘭花紫可與2010年的綠松石色及其他色調一同出現在臺面上。
