讓你不敢相信的十種仿製品(下)

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5.奶酪

People around the world have long mocked the bland palates of Americans, who happily consume things like Wonder Bread and spaghetti out of cans. Nowhere is this more obvious than their taste for cheese. One of the more popular variants in the US is "American" cheese, often sold in packets of individually wrapped slices. Very nearly a counterfeit in its own right, this product is so heavily diluted that it cannot even be legally sold as cheese, but as "cheese food," which is just about as appetizing as it sounds. However, in Europe, cheese is taken with deadly seriousness.

全世界的人都在嘲笑美國人口味單調，後者總是很樂意消費像驚奇麪包，和罐裝意式細麪條這類食品。沒有比這更能顯示出他們對奶酪的口味會是怎樣了。在美國更受歡迎的變體食品之一就是美式奶酪，常常單獨地切片包裝成一捆出售。這近乎是一種假冒僞劣產品了，其中包含的奶酪非常稀，它甚至不能作爲奶酪合法出售，只能冠名爲"奶酪食品"，好讓人聽上去有食慾些。然而在歐洲，奶酪的使用是件極其嚴肅的事。

Switzerland is famed for their many variants of cheese, including Emmental and Gruyere. Like champagne, which can only call itself that if the grapes are grown within a very specific geographical area, the Swiss have exacting rules on how their cheeses can be produced. Unfortunately, fakes began to appear on the market, particularly in Italy, leading to a decline in sales. To protect this lucrative industry, the federal government has established a bank of 10,000 strains of milk bacteria DNA, a project that took scientists a decade to complete. The bacteria is kept frozen in a facility in the city of Bern. These samples are used to test against suspected forgeries, and spot checks are often conducted in markets.

瑞士以奶酪種類繁多而聞名，包括多孔乾酪和格魯耶爾乾酪。但是就和香檳一樣，只有原料即葡萄是產於特定的地區的時候，它才能被稱作"香檳"，瑞士人對於奶酪如何生產也有着嚴格規定。不幸的是，假奶酪開始在市場上出現，導致奶酪售量減少，這種情況在意大利尤其嚴重。爲了保護這個高利潤行業，聯邦政府建立了一個儲庫，儲存了一萬個牛奶細菌DNA菌株，這個項目花費了科學家們十年時間。這些細菌冷藏在伯爾尼的設備中。這些樣品用作測試疑似僞劣的產品，奶酪市場上經常會有抽查。

4.汽車

The global masters of fakery, the Chinese even peddle such sophisticated counterfeits as complete cars. Around 2000, a rash of Volkswagen lookalikes began to make the scene. Then, the storied Chery QQ (based on the Chevy Spark) was released. At one point, the Chery QQ was one of the cheapest cars in the world, available for under $5,000 brand new. Today, Daimler Chrysler's Mini is the du jour counterfeit, with at least three different Chinese firms pushing their own versions.

全球的造假大師，中國人，甚至兜售像一輛完整的汽車這樣複雜的假貨。大批大衆汽車的仿品開始面世，約有2000輛。緊接着，著名的奇瑞QQ（以雪佛蘭spark爲原型）就出現了。奇瑞QQ曾經一度是世界上最便宜的汽車，一輛全新的只要不到5000美元就能買到。今天，戴姆勒-克萊斯勒公司的Mini小型兩廂車纔是如今風靡的假貨，至少有三家不同的中國公司發售了他們自己的型號。

Legal actions against the Chinese firms pushing knockoffs have proven largely fruitless. The real mystery is how the Chinese can peddle these cars for less than half the price of those made by legitimate manufacturers. While they would certainly escape the costs of research and development by using hijacked blueprints, that they continue to make a profit despite the costs of construction and raw materials indicates that there might be something even darker at play.

訴訟反對中國公司製造並銷售名牌仿製品已經被證實是毫無用處的。真正的謎團其實是，中國人是怎麼把合法製造商製造的汽車以低於一半的價格售賣出去的。他們肯定有自己不可告人的辦法來降低產品研究及開發的成本。儘管用在產品製造和原材料上的資金表明這其中確實還有更多不爲人知的古怪，但這也並不妨礙造假的人繼續從中獲利。

divarius Violins

3.斯特拉迪瓦里小提琴

Like expensive wine and Beats by Dre headphones, Stradivarius violins are probably overrated. Various tests have been conducted which prove that music experts cannot distinguish between their sound and that of other quality violins. Nevertheless, violins constructed by the family, particularly Antonio Stradivari, an Italian luthier who lived from 1644 to 1737, command outrageous prices. In 2014, Sotheby's put a viola made by Stradivari up for auction—for $45 million (buyers failed to meet the minimum asking price). In 2011, Tarisio auction house sold a 1721 Stradivarius violin called the Lady Blunt for an eye-popping $15.9 million. And anywhere such outrageous sums can be generated, counterfeiting is sure to follow.

就像昂貴的紅酒和Beats耳機一樣，人們對斯特拉迪瓦里小提琴或許有些過譽了。各種測試表明音樂專家也不能辨別斯特拉迪瓦里小提琴的音色與其他小提琴有什麼區別。不過小提琴製作一般都是家族產業，特別是安東尼奧·斯特拉迪瓦里(1644-1737)，他是一位意大利撥絃樂器製作匠，他製作的小提琴價位也不是一般的高。2014年，蘇富比拍賣行拍賣了一把由斯特拉瓦迪裏製作的小提琴,價格達到了4500萬美元（買家需要支付的最低要價）。早在2011年的時候，塔裏西奧拍賣公司就以驚人的1590萬美元的價格賣出了一把1721年製作的斯特拉迪瓦里小提琴，它的名字是"布朗特夫人"。任何地方都能出現這樣的高價，因此，斯特拉迪瓦里小提琴仿製品無疑會隨之產生。

Unlike many other knockoffs, counterfeit violins are often extremely sophisticated. Experts have to be extremely skilled to detect the subtle differences. Besides blaring inconsistencies, the first line of defense against fakes is to determine if the instrument is old enough to have been made by Stradivari. This is accomplished through a process called dendrochronology—studying the tree rings to put an age on the wood used to build the instrument. The varnish on the violin can also be analyzed to test for chemicals that Stradivari would not have used. As you might imagine, neither of these processes is exactly clear-cut. The best defense against counterfeit violins is technology—networks of people who can archive their expertise and collect photographs. Of course, all this knowledge is also available to the counterfeiters, who only refine their technique more.

跟許多其他的名牌仿製品不一樣的是，即使是仿造的小提琴，通常也是相當精緻。只有經驗豐富專家們才能查出仿品與真品之間的細微差別。除了音色不同，測定小提琴的年代和斯特拉迪瓦里本人生活的年代是否一致是檢測其真僞的第一步。這需要使用樹木年代學的方法——通過研究用來製作小提琴的樹木年輪特性來判定其生產年代。另外，檢測樂器表面的清漆的化學成分，看是不是斯特拉迪瓦里用過的種類，這樣也能辨出真僞。也許正如你所想，這兩種方法的過程都不是很清楚。最好的辨別假貨的方式就是利用網絡技術，將真品的專業鑑別信息及照片存檔。當然，這些知識都是對造假者也是有用的——知道了這些對他們提高造假技術可是很有幫助的。

hup

2.番茄醬

Ketchup isn't a big-ticket item. In the United States, nearly every restaurant offers it for free. But as we've seen, there is no limit, no scant profit, that counterfeiters will not strive toward. In October 2012, a bizarre story emerged from a private warehouse in Dover, New Jersey. People leasing space in the building reported exploding containers of ketchup, which in return attracted hordes of flies. The ketchup in question was "Simply Heinz," a premium version which uses sugar in its recipe instead of high fructose corn syrup.

番茄醬是日常用品。在美國，幾乎每家餐館都會免費提供番茄醬。如我們所知，對於沒有使用限制和足夠利潤的商品，造假者們是不會趨之若鶩的。但是，在2012年10月，美國新澤西州多佛市的一個私人倉庫中傳出一則離奇新聞。大樓的租住戶反應，裝着番茄醬的容器突然爆炸，並引來了成羣的蒼蠅蚊子。這些番茄醬的問題出在有人假借"亨氏"之名，用普通糖代替了高果糖玉米糖漿。

It is believed that regular ketchup was added to the Simply Heinz bottles with fake labels. Exposed to the air and possible adulterants, fermentation began, and the sugar in the ketchup reacted with the acidic tomatoes and vinegar to release gases that caused the bottles to detonate. An investigation was conducted by Heinz, whose spokeswoman claimed that the company "has not discovered any information that leads us to believe the illegally repackaged product is on the market." According to Michael Mullen, Heinz's vice president of corporate and government affairs, "The site of this operation was abandoned and had produced only a small quantity of bottles, much of which was still on site."

造假者們把普通番茄醬裝進"亨氏"瓶中，並貼上假標籤。當這些番茄醬暴露在空氣和可能存在的雜質中，發酵就開始了，番茄醬中的糖和酸反應，產生大量氣體，最終撐爆了瓶子。亨氏集團做了相關調查，其發言人稱"目前還未發現非法重新包裝的番茄醬流入市場"。據亨氏公司副總裁邁克爾·馬倫稱"造假廠已被摧毀，他們只生產了少量瓶子，大部分瓶子都在事發現場。"

e Store

1.蘋果專賣店

Dubbed by some as the world's most valuable brand, it will come as no surprise that Apple products—which range in price from hundreds to thousands of dollars—are frequently counterfeited. Often, they aren't even particularly good fakes—just weighted glass frames designed to replicate iPads. In a typical street transaction, by the time the buyer recognizes that he's been defrauded, the seller is blocks away and picking up speed.

蘋果被認爲是世界上最有價值的品牌，所以蘋果產品——價值幾百至幾千美元不等——經常被仿製也不足爲奇。蘋果公司的仿製品通常都不好——它們只是在玻璃框架的重量和外型上追求與IPad一致。典型的街頭交易中，當買方意識到自己被騙後，賣方就會越過街區快速逃離。

In fact, Apple is so popular that entire fake stores have sprung up in China. In 2011, a shocking 22 counterfeit Apple stores were discovered in Kunming, some with incredibly elaborate detail, from the trademark company uniform of blue shirts and lanyards down to architectural trademarks like Apple's winding staircases. However, like most fakes, there were subtle differences, such as misspelled signage advertising the "Apple Stoer." After an American posted photos of this ruse on a blog, Chinese authorities swept in to shut the stores down. Of course, this did little to stem the tide; merchants began offering knockoff Apple watches in March 2015, even before the official version's release date.

事實上，蘋果公司的產品太流行了，這就導致了山寨蘋果專賣店如雨後春筍般出現在中國大地上。2011年，昆明驚現22家山寨蘋果店，有些甚至很難分辨得出來——不管是從印有蘋果商標的藍色T恤及銘牌還是從店內的旋轉扶梯上。儘管如此，它們和大多數假貨一樣，和真店相比還是有細微的差別，比如拼寫錯誤的招牌"Apple Stoer"。在美國人將這組山寨蘋果店的照片放到博客上後，中國政府勒令山寨店關閉。當然，這並不能阻止造假潮流。2015年3月，在官方版本出來之前，商家們就已經開始提供山寨蘋果手錶了。

審校：梅子九 編輯：listen 來源：前十網