酒莊音樂會摩天輪 時報帶你玩轉西雅圖
Advice to visit Seattle’s Pike Place Market may border on cliché — but for a good reason.
來西雅圖要去派克市場(Pike Place)，這個建議簡直有點俗氣了——不過還是值得的。
Whether you’re visiting Washington’s seaside city for vacation or just stopping by en route to and from the coming Sasquatch music festival, Pike Place is an easy catch-all destination for shopping, eating and just plain walking around, said Kirk Johnson, The New York Times’s Seattle bureau chief for the past three years.
過去三年一直擔任《紐約時報》西雅圖分社社長的柯克·約翰遜(Kirk Johnson)說，不管你是專程前來度假，抑或是去參加即將到來的“大腳怪”(Sasquatch)音樂節，往來途中在此停留，只要來到西雅圖這座華盛頓州的海濱城市，派克市場都是輕鬆享受購物、美食與散心的一站式好去處。
“Almost any day of the week, especially on the weekend, it’s a crazy fun scene of people shopping,” Mr. Johnson said. “There’s also pretty good food.” He recommends wandering into whatever place — especially a hole in the wall — catches your eye.
“一週裏的任何一天，特別是週末，在這裏購物都非常棒，”約翰遜說。“美食也相當不錯。”他還說，走進任何地方閒逛，都能讓你目不暇接——特別是牆壁上的一個大洞。
There is one specific restaurant Mr. Johnson likes: the Pink Door, which has no signage and can be found only by its rosy entrance. “It’s creative, interesting Italian,” he said. “In the summer they get a lot of great fresh vegetables and probably have the best tomato bruschetta I’ve had.”
約翰遜特別喜歡一個名叫“粉紅門”(the Pink Door)的飯館，它門口沒有標識，只能靠玫紅色的入口找到它。“是很有創意，很美味的意大利菜，”他說，“夏天有很多新鮮蔬菜，番茄烤麪包片可能是我生平吃過最棒的。”
He also recommends the nearby Pioneer Square, the oldest neighborhood in Seattle. Its historic architecture has charm, and the area isn’t bad for a lunch break, he said. The clear favorite here is Salumi — which, as the name suggests, is known for its cured meats. Mr. Johnson did warn, however, that it’s necessary to plan for the fact that the restaurant has a long line as soon as it opens.
他還推薦附近的先鋒廣場(Pioneer Square)，這是西雅圖最古老的社區。他說，不但歷史建築非常迷人，來吃吃午飯也不錯。在這兒，他最心愛的餐廳當然是“薩魯米”(Salumi)，這是意大利語“醃肉”的意思，顧名思義，這家飯館是以加工肉製品聞名的。不過約翰遜也告誡說，“薩魯米”從剛一開門就會排起長隊。
Pioneer Square is also a portal to Seattle’s maritime world that remains alive and well. Ferry rides are a short walk away. Mr. Johnson said the ferry ride to Bainbridge Island provides “a great view of the city,” and it’s not a long ride back to the mainland.
西雅圖的海運王國至今仍然繁榮活躍，先鋒廣場正是它的入口。輪渡碼頭就在步行不遠的地方。約翰遜說，乘坐輪渡到班布里奇島，沿途可以“飽覽城市的美景”，然後坐船回來，路途不算遙遠。
Feel free to make a day of the waterfront, Mr. Johnson said. West Seattle is home to the city’s closest semblance of a beach, and it has a boardwalk. Farther away, you could ride the Seattle Great Wheel or explore the miles of trails on foot or riding a bicycle.
約翰遜說，在海濱玩上一天也沒問題。西雅圖西部是這座城市最接近海濱的地方，這裏有一條海濱步行道。再往遠一點是西雅圖摩天輪，你還可以沿小徑步行或騎行幾英里，進一步探索這個城市。
At some point, you may see sculptures emerging on the horizon — that would be the Olympic Sculpture Park, which is operated by the Seattle Art Museum, Mr. Johnson said, and that’s worth a visit itself. The museum, too, is “almost always interesting,” he said, “and it’s a beautiful building.”
如果看到若干雕塑從地平線上浮現出來，那你一定是來到了奧林匹克雕塑公園(Olympic Sculpture Park)，它是由西雅圖藝術博物館(Seattle Art Museum)經營的，非常值得一看，約翰遜說。博物館也“總是那麼有趣，”而且，“是一棟非常漂亮的建築。”
People who want to experience Seattle’s nearby charms can easily do so with a bicycle, Mr. Johnson said, if they want to get away from depending on a car. He takes a ride to Chateau Ste. Michelle, a famous winery outside the city.
約翰遜說，如果訪客不想依賴汽車代步，騎自行車亦可以輕鬆體驗西雅圖周邊美景。他就曾經騎車探訪聖密夕葡萄園(Chateau Ste. Michelle)，這是西雅圖郊外一座著名的酒莊。
Starting in June, he said, Chateau Ste. Michelle hosts a summer concert series on its lawn. “If it’s a nice night, and the weather is good, it’s a really great spot,” he said. Or, if you prefer beer, Redhook Brewery & Forecasters Pub is across the street from the winery.
他說，聖密夕葡萄園每年從6月開始，都會在自家草坪上舉辦一系列夏日音樂會。“如果趕上一個天氣涼爽的美好夏夜，那真是個辦演出的好地方，”他說。如果你更愛啤酒，酒莊對面就是萊德胡克釀酒廠與福卡斯特斯酒吧(Redhook Brewery & Forecasters Pub)。
Mr. Johnson admits he still has items to check off on his own Seattle bucket list. For example, he’d like to try Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour, which follows underground passages through Seattle’s historic downtown.
約翰遜承認，西雅圖還有他想玩而沒玩過的地方。比如說，他還打算試試比爾·斯派德爾(Bill Speidel)的“地下之旅”(Underground Tour)，遊客可以從西雅圖歷史上的市中心的地下通行。
The Travel section has you covered for anything Mr. Johnson might have missed — including a 36 Hours guide to the city. And because we aren’t shying away from cliché, there’s always the Space Needle.
“旅遊”板塊中還有其他約翰遜先生可能並未盡述的內容——包括西雅圖36小時旅遊。另外我們不怕俗套，太空針塔(Space Needle)也別忘了去。
