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牛糞時裝:荷蘭設計師將牛糞改造成時裝

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很多人身上的化纖衣服都是石油做成的,那麼牛糞做成的衣服你穿過嗎?你的第一反應可能是這種衣服會不會臭不可聞。放心,就像化纖衣服上聞不到石油的味道,牛糞時裝也不會保留那種臭烘烘的原始味道。一起來了解一下吧!

With cattle breeding at an all time high, manure has become one of the world’s greatest environmental hazards, but one Dutch artist is using chemistry to turn into something that is both eco-friendly and valuable. Her innovative technique turns manure into a variety of useful materials like clothing fabric, bio-degradable plastic and paper.
因爲全球畜牛量一直保持在很高水平,所以牛糞已經成爲了世界幾大環境公害之一。但現在,荷蘭一位設計師正在運用化學原理將牛糞轉化成對環境無害的有用之物,例如服裝面料、生物可降解塑料以及紙張。

牛糞時裝:荷蘭設計師將牛糞改造成時裝

In recent years, scientists around the world have made great progress in their attempts to recycle cattle manure, including turning it into natural fertilizer and biogas, but Eindhoven designer Jalila Essaïdi didn’t think they were efficient enough to solve the global manure surplus problem. So she started on her very own solution, one that approached animal waste as a valuable material that could be processed into useful products. The results of her work prove that manure really is worth its weight in gold.
最近幾年,全球各地的科學家都在牛糞回收問題上獲得了不錯的成果,比如把牛糞轉化成天然肥料和沼氣。然而,荷蘭埃因霍溫市的設計師賈麗拉•埃塞迪並不認爲這些手段足以解決全球牛糞過量問題。因此,她開始自己研究解決方法,希望能讓動物糞便變成可再利用的產品原料。賈麗拉的研究結果表明,糞便的確有利用價值。

Working in her BioArtLab, Jalila Essaïdi discovered that cow manure provided both the base for a new, bio-degradable material and the chemicals required to produce it. She started by separating the waste, with the dry manure used to extract pure cellulose from the grass that cows eat. From the wet manure, she extracted acids used to create cellulose acetate, a natural liquid plastic. This was used to make fibers, which are later turned into fabric or bio-plastics, but it can also be freeze-dried to create an aerogel.
在她的生物藝術實驗室裏,賈麗拉•埃塞迪發現牛糞可以爲一種新的、生物可降解物質提供主要成分和化學原料。她從分離糞便開始,將幹糞中的純纖維素提取出來,這些纖維素來自牛所吃的草。她還從新鮮的糞便中提取出用於製作醋酸纖維素這一天然液體塑料的酸類物質。醋酸纖維素可以用來製作纖維,纖維又是生成布料和生物塑料的原料。醋酸纖維素還可以通過冷凍乾燥生成氣凝膠。

The new material was named Mestic, from mest, the Dutch word for manure. Essaïdi claims that it has the same properties as plastic derived from fossil fuels, but is bio-degradable. Better yet, the degradability can be tweaked in the lab, making it possible to create materials that last for different periods of time depending on their purpose.
這種新物質被命名爲Mestic,因爲荷蘭語中的糞便一詞寫作mest。埃塞迪解釋道,它的原理與石油衍生物塑料一樣,不同的是新物質是生物可降解的。更好的是,這種可降解性通過實驗室處理可以改變,從而使原料的降解屬性根據不同目的做出不同調整。

“This is not the first time that scientists are looking for ways to solve the manure problem, but it is the first time that manure is being considered as a valuable resource,” the Dutch designer said.
這位荷蘭設計師說:“這並不是科學家第一次致力於尋找解決糞便問題的途徑,但把糞便當做是有利用價值的資源,這確實是第一次。”

Last year, Jalila Essaïdi partnered with the municipality of Eindhoven to produce a fashion show using Mestic-based fabrics. Her Mestic couture collection was so impressive that clothing giant H&M awarded her the Global Change Award and a $1 million prize. And just in case you’re wondering, no, manure-derived clothes don’t stink.
去年,賈麗拉•埃塞迪同埃因霍溫市市政局聯合主辦了一場時裝展,展示由Mestic製成的衣料。賈麗拉的糞便時裝展引起了巨大轟動,服裝界鉅商H&M因此頒發給了賈麗拉“全球改變獎”和100萬美元獎金。關於這種時裝是否有惡臭的問題,大家也無需擔憂,糞便時裝完全沒有臭味。

Essaïdi now plans to increase Mestic production and work on making it usable in 3D printing, but that requires a bit more research to tweak its melting temperature. She also intends to use the material to build a bridge in her home city of Eindhoven to further showcase the versatility of this innovative invention.
埃塞迪現在計劃擴大Mestic的產量並嘗試把它運用在3D打印上,但這需要在改變其融化溫度方面開展更多研究。她還打算在家鄉埃因霍溫市用這種材料建一座橋來進一步展示她的這一創造發現具有多種功能。

And cow manure is just the beginning of Jalila Essaïdi’s experiments with animal waste. “After cows, we’ll tackle pigs and other animals,” she told Dezeen. “And after that? Who knows.”
牛糞僅僅是賈麗拉•埃塞迪對動物糞便進行研究的開始。她告訴Dezeen(全球最具影響力的建築設計博客網站):“研究完牛糞之後,我們將研究豬糞和其他動物的糞便。要說這之後的計劃,誰知道呢?”