睡衣也曾風靡時尚界？

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The head teacher of a British primary school has urged parents not to wear pyjamas when bringing their children in, for fear of setting them a bad example. But pyjamas, far from being seen as dowdy and scruffy, were once at the very apex of fashion.
英國一所小學的校長號召父母不要穿睡衣送孩子上學，以免給孩子樹立不好的榜樣。但睡衣並非一直是破舊和邋遢的象徵，它曾經引領時尚潮流。

The Lido, Venice's most famous beach, has been known for more than 150 years for its sophistication. So, an advertising poster from 1927 comes as something of a surprise.
麗都（Lido）是威尼斯最有名的一片海灘，它的優雅迷人已經流傳了150多年。因此，1927年的宣傳海報便使衆人驚歎不已。

It proclaimed to potential wealthy visitors that the Lido was "the beach of sunshine and pyjamas". Its sands and hotels were places where people could feel comfortable spending days and evenings relaxing and partying in a garment today associated with bedtime, convalescence or days slobbing out on the sofa.
當時，麗都對有消費潛力的富有遊客們宣稱，這裏是“陽光和睡衣的沙灘”。在麗都，遊客可以在沙灘和旅館享受輕鬆愉快的日間和夜晚聚會。如今，睡衣總與睡覺、養病和窩在沙發上的邋遢日子相聯繫，而在當時，卻是放鬆和愉悅的象徵。

In a week where a head teacher in Darlington has told parents not to do the school run wearing pyjamas for fear of not setting a "good example" to their children, it's hard to believe they were ever haute couture.
近日，達靈頓（Darlington）一所小學的校長告訴父母在接送孩子時不要穿睡衣，擔心這樣不利於爲孩子們樹立一個好榜樣。我們很難相信，當時睡衣就是高級的定製服裝。

But the 1920s were a different time. While pyjamas - from the Hindi "paejama", meaning "leg covering" - had become established nightwear for men since the 1870s, it was seen as adventurous for a woman to wear trousers of any kind, especially in public.
但在20世紀20年代，情況完全不同：英文“睡衣”（pyjamas）一詞起源於印度語“ paejama”，意爲“遮蓋腿部”。這種神似裙子的服裝在19世紀70年代就已被男士定義爲睡衣。不過，當時對女士來說，穿任何款式的褲子都是一種冒險，尤其是在公共場合。

The force for change was the French fashion designer Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel, who decided baggy pyjama-style trousers - complete with a loose-fitting shirt or a sleeveless top - could combine elegance and comfort.
法國時尚設計師香奈兒改變了這種現狀，她設計出了睡衣風格的寬鬆褲子，配上寬鬆的T恤和無袖上衣，簡直就是舒適與優雅的結合。

As early as 1918, she began wearing "beach pyjamas". With their gender-confusing suggestion of the boudoir, they were seen as shocking, but such was Chanel's influence that they became popular among rich women by the mid-1920s.
在1918年早期，她開始穿“沙灘睡衣”。由於這種睡衣可能會混淆男女之間的性別差異，因此在當時引起了不小的震驚。但隨着香奈兒影響的不斷擴大，20世紀20年代中葉，沙灘睡衣在富有女子中間已經廣受歡迎。

The up-and-coming resort of Juan-les-Pins on France's Cote d'Azur marketed itself on being less stuffy than rival destinations and became popularly known as "Pyjamaland" in English and "Pyjamapolis" in French, so commonly worn were they among its visitors. Some chose Chanel-style fashion pyjamas, but others, seemingly for fun, spent their days outdoors in actual bedtime pyjamas, complete with dressing gown.
位於法國藍色海岸的朱安雷賓是一個風頭正勁的旅遊勝地。和其他旅遊景點相比，它宣稱此處不那麼“悶熱”，並作爲“睡衣勝地”（Pyjamaland，法語作Pyjamapolis）聞名於世。因此，對這兒的遊客來說，沙灘睡衣很常見。有人選擇了香奈兒的時尚睡衣，而其他人，似乎只是爲了玩樂，穿着睡衣或浴衣參加戶外活動。

"There is a town in France, where summers start at the beginning of spring and ends at the end of autumn," wrote the journalist Robert de Beauplan in 1931. "There, you can see women wearing strange dresses. It's strictly speaking Pyjamapolis." In the same year, Vogue magazine was advertising pyjamas as "woollen suits for the beach".
記者德伯格蘭德（Robert de Beauplan）在1931年寫道：“法國有一個小鎮，夏季從春季初一直延續到秋季末，在那兒，你會發現女人們都穿着奇怪的衣服。嚴格來說，那簡直就是一座睡衣之城。”也就在那一年，《時尚》雜誌把睡衣標榜爲“沙灘上的毛制西服”。

In 1932, two women wearing brightly coloured pyjamas caused a stir on Brighton seafront as they promenaded while smoking pipes.
1932年，在布萊頓（Brighton）海濱區，兩名女士身穿亮色睡衣，漫步海灘，嘴含菸斗。這一舉動在當時引起一時轟動。

"Throughout the 1930s the styles spread further and could be seen lining the beaches of Britain, yet trousers for women remained somewhat taboo outside of the relaxed dress codes of the beach or the privacy of the home until later in the century," says fashion historian Amber Butchart.
時尚歷史學家安伯•布查特（Amber Butchart）說：“20世紀30年代，這種睡衣風格開始廣爲流傳。在英國沙灘上，你會發現人們幾乎都穿着睡衣，但是除了休閒的沙灘睡衣或是家居服，女士仍然不能穿其他樣式的褲子，直到20世紀後期，這一限制才慢慢放鬆。”

Chanel herself discovered this attitude on a visit to Juan-les-Pins. The story goes that a doorman refused her entry to a casino. Its owner, Edouard Baudoin, intervened, saying: "Mademoiselle Chanel, you are living proof that one must not be merely dressed, but well-dressed." The publicity seemingly did neither Baudoin or Chanel any harm.
香奈兒去朱安雷賓度假時，發現了人們對待睡衣的態度。這個故事要從看門人拒絕她進入俱樂部說起。而老闆愛德華•波丹（Edouard Baudoin）處理這件事時，說：“香奈兒女士，你就是活生生的例子，一個人不僅要穿，更要穿出品味。”這件事對波丹和香奈兒都沒啥影響。

By World War Two, the craze for pyjamas was fading, with the swimsuit overtaking it as the female beach clothing of choice. Chanel was again among those at the forefront of its popularisation. The post-war period saw the more revealing bikini take over.
直到第二次世界大戰，人們對睡衣的狂熱才逐漸消減，泳衣開始成爲女性的不二選擇。香奈兒再次走在大衆化的前沿。戰後，比基尼成爲沙灘的主流服裝。

But Robert de Beauplan's observations are a reminder of the effect pyjamas had on the inter-war world. They gave "women an uNPRecedented look, more free, cheekier, and its relaxed attitude always remains tasteful", he wrote.
但德伯格蘭德的記錄提醒了我們，睡衣在兩次世界大戰之間的影響。他寫道，睡衣“賦予女人前所未有的外表，更多的自由和更開放的行爲。它帶給人們的舒適放鬆的享受，讓人回味”。

There were simple "classic" versions available, he added, and "more dressed-up" types, with a lower cut, especially at the back. "It's the afternoon outfit, for visits, tea, dancing and cocktails," wrote Beauplan. "There are also night pyjamas, which look like dresses from afar when you see them in casinos, until you see the person dance quickly the fox-trot and then, there's no mistaking."
他補充道，至今還保留一些“經典的”款式，更多的是“盛裝”，領口低開，尤其是後背。他還寫道：“還有下午套裝，用來拜訪、喝茶、跳舞或是出席雞尾酒會。當然，也有晚宴睡衣，在俱樂部從遠處看，就像裙子一樣。但當你看到人們快速舞動着狐步時，你纔會發覺，的確是睡衣。”

The world of fashion has seen a resurgence of interest in pyjamasas daywear recently, with some designers including them in their collections.
最近，睡衣再次風靡時尚界，一些設計師還專門設計了睡衣系列。

But they've become controversial again for a different reason. Kate Chisholm, head teacher of Skerne Park Academy in Darlington, County Durham, has complained that parents are turning up at school dressed in them. She's urged them to "dress appropriately in day wear", arguing this will set their children a better example, increasing pride and academic achievement.
由於各種原因，睡衣再次成爲人們議論的焦點。達勒姆市（Durham）達令敦鎮斯克恩公園學院（Skerne Park Academy ）的校長凱特•奇澤姆（ Kate Chisholm）曾抱怨，父母穿着睡衣送孩子上學。她號召父母“穿着得體”，並談到這可以爲孩子們樹立一個好榜樣，有利於自尊和學術成就的培養。

Similarly, in 2014, US fashion commentator Clinton Kelly remarked there had been a "downward spiral of style" over the previous decade. Adults who might pop to the local shop for a pint of milk or newspaper wearing slippers and pyjamas felt they had "permission not to care" about sartorial standards.
同樣，2014年，美國時尚評論員克林頓•凱利（Clinton Kelly）認爲，在過去的幾十年，人們的風格品味在走下坡路。一些成年人穿着拖鞋和睡衣去當地商店買牛奶或取報紙，並且覺得他們無需在乎着衣標準。

Some of the Skerne Park parents, who have been vilified on social media, could at least take succour from one of Chanel's best known remarks: "It is always better to be slightly underdressed."
斯克恩公園學院的部分父母在社交媒體上遭到了批評，但他們至少可以從香奈兒的一句名言中尋得安慰：“有一點點不得體才更好。”

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel

§ Born in 1883 in Saumur, France, she was raised in an orphanage, where she learned to sew

§ She worked as a singer, where she picked up the nickname "Coco", before opening her first clothes shop in 1910

§ In 1921, she launched Chanel No 5, still one of the world's best-selling perfumes, and later popularised the "little black dress"

§ During the Nazi occupation of France in World War Two, she had an affair with a German officer, moving to Switzerland after hostilities ended

§ Chanel returned to Paris in the early 1960s, her fashions once again becoming popular, and died at the Hotel Ritz in 1971

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香奈兒

Coco Chanel

1883年，香奈兒出生於法國的索米爾（Saumur），在孤兒院長大，並在那學會了做針線活。

她當過歌手，由此而得綽號“Coco”，隨後，在1910年，開了自己的第一家服裝店。

1921年，她推出了香奈兒5號，至今仍是世界上最暢銷的香水之一。之後設計的“小黑裙”也廣受歡迎。