今年新風尚:迷你裙迴歸時裝界
It started as a spring drizzle, then runways with clothes for fall became flooded with them. Miniskirts in all styles -- mod, flirty, kicky, sporty and even formal -- signaled that hemlines are emerging shorter than they've been in years.
剛開始只是春天的毛毛雨，後來在秋季時裝秀場上氾濫成災。各式各樣的迷你裙──60年代摩登風格、挑逗的、活潑的、運動的、甚至正式的──正在發出裙子越來越短的信號。They're coming from designers at fashion's forefront -- Hedi Slimane's sultry Saint Laurent, Euro-posh Giambattista Valli, Dior's Raf Simons, casual-chic Isabel Marant -- suggesting this is the tip of a wave. In his debut at Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquiere bet the bank on slim minis.
這些迷你裙都出自時尚前沿的設計師之手──艾迪·斯理曼(Hedi Slimane)性感迷人的 羅蘭(Saint Laurent)，歐式時髦風格的詹巴迪斯塔·瓦利(Giambattista Valli)，迪奧(Dior)的拉夫·西蒙斯(Raf Simons)，休閒時尚的伊莎貝爾·瑪蘭(Isabel Marant)──說明它正站在時尚潮流的風口浪尖。在爲路易威登(Louis Vuitton)所做的首個系列中，尼古拉斯·蓋斯基埃(Nicolas Ghesquiere)把注押在了修身迷你裙上。Gucci designer Frida Giannini signaled the seriousness of her intent to go mini by devoting the final look in her Fall 2014 show, a position that is often reserved for important evening gowns or bridal dresses, to an ultra short hemline.
古馳(Gucci)設計師弗裏達·賈娜妮(Frida Giannini)將2014秋季時裝秀的壓軸位置給了一款超短裙，這個位置通常都是留給重要的晚禮服或新娘禮服的。這表明了她對走迷你路線的認真態度。
The look is youthful and modern with a hint of '60s retro coed.
這款迷你裙青春洋溢，現代感十足，又帶有一絲60年代的復古校園風。'My haute couture was all legs, legs, legs,' says Mr. Valli of his exclusive made-to-measure collection. He notes that he hoped to underline his label's appeal to the growing number of younger couture clients. He did minis for his ready-to-wear collection as well, calling the look 'young and fresh.'
瓦利提到他的獨家定製系列時說；“我的高定時裝重點在腿。”他指出，他希望向日益增多的年輕高定客戶強調品牌的吸引力。他的成衣系列也有迷你裙，他稱迷你裙“年輕、清新”。News of the mini's return is likely to be met with cheers in some corners and groans in others. The young and leggy -- and their admirers -- often view the look favorably. Others prefer more coverage.
迷你裙迴歸的消息可能會引起一些人的歡呼，不過也會遭到一些人的抱怨。長腿的年輕女孩以及她們的愛慕者通常比較青睞迷你裙，而其他人則喜歡不那麼暴露。But these days, fashion is all about choice. No hemline is obligatory. Ultra-trendy retailer Opening Ceremony, for example, sells its skirts and dresses in three categories: mini, midi, and maxi.
但是如今時裝的關鍵在於選擇。並不一定非得穿迷你裙。比如連鎖潮店Opening Ceremony就有三種半身裙和連身裙供選擇：迷你、中等長度還有長裙。For the current season, the mini is likely to mainly appeal to fashion's early adopters. The look is new, calling to mind Goldie Hawn in her 'Laugh-In' days, and contrasts starkly with the longer, ladylike trends of recent seasons.
在本季，迷你裙可能主要會吸引時尚界最前衛的人羣。迷你裙是新潮流，會讓人想起電視喜劇“Laugh-In”中的戈爾迪·霍恩(Goldie Hawn)，同時也和近幾季的淑女長裙形成鮮明對比。Some mainstream retailers say they plan to watch the mini for a season or two before investing heavily. 'I wouldn't say it was the trend we called out,' says Brooke Jaffe, fashion director of Bloomingdale's. The department store is mostly focused on skirt lengths just below the knee, she says. Bloomingdale's, owned by Macy's, Inc., will stock some minis, such as Ms. Marant's embellished versions, for 'off-hours' wear.
有主流零售商說，他們打算先對迷你裙觀察一兩季，然後再決定是否大量投資。梅西百貨公司(Macy's Inc.)旗下布魯明戴爾百貨公司(Bloomingdale's)時裝總監布魯克·賈菲(Brooke Jaffe)說：“這並不是我們所追求的潮流。”她說，布魯明戴爾主要出售長度剛到膝蓋以下的裙子。布魯明戴爾會進一些適合“非工作時間”穿着的迷你裙，比如瑪蘭設計的比較花哨的款式。'There are people in the industry that are ones to watch,' says Ms. Jaffe, listing Mr. Simons, Mr. Ghesquiere and Mr. Slimane among others. 'I take it as an indication of things to come -- but not at this minute.'
賈菲說：“業內有很多可作爲風向標的設計師，我把他們當作未來潮流趨勢的風向標，但並不是當下。”她列舉了西蒙斯、蓋斯基埃和斯理曼等設計師。Minis are no longer the revolutionary fashion they were when they were introduced 50-some years ago. And no longer relegated only to younger wearers, the new mini trend can be worn by anyone who feels they have the legs for it -- some of whom may have worn them years ago.
迷你裙不再是50年前剛推出時的革命性時裝了。最新的迷你裙潮流也不再只侷限於年輕人。如今，自認擁有美腿的人都可以穿迷你裙──有些人或許很多年前也穿過。Margo Barbakow was married in a white minidress at the Waldorf Astoria towers in 1970 in New York City.
1970年，瑪戈·巴伯考(Margo Barbakow)在紐約華爾道夫大廈酒店(Waldorf Astoria towers)結婚時穿的就是白色迷你裙婚紗。'My mother called it my 'wedding blouse,' ' recalls Ms. Barbakow. 'I fought like hell to get her to let me buy that dress.'
巴伯考回憶道：“我母親說我穿的是‘婚衫’。我想盡辦法才讓她給我買了那條裙子。”Now 66 years old and living in Santa Barbara, Calif., Ms. Barbakow says her skirts won't rise higher than just-above-the-knee this time around. Fortunately, she says, she recently lost 18 pounds. 'I feel better about showing my legs now -- with enough self-tanning cream,' she says.
如今巴伯考已經66歲，住在加州 巴巴拉(Santa Barbara)。她說，現在她穿裙子不會超過略高於膝蓋的高度。她說，幸運的是最近她減了18磅的體重。她說：“現在我對露腿的感覺好些了──塗上足夠的自助美黑霜就可以了。”Like firecrackers and some children's toys, many miniskirts should come with warnings on their hang tags. Office workers: Beware clothing with virtually no room for error. If you have to yank the skirt down when rising from your seat, you're likely distracting yourself and others. Test this in the dressing room before you buy. Sit down, wiggle, and stand up three times. If the skirt requires coaching to stay in place, try a different one.
和鞭炮還有某些兒童玩具一樣，很多迷你裙的標籤上都應該有警示說明。上班族：小心這是容不得任何出錯餘地的裙子。如果你的裙子在你從座位上起身時必須得往下拉一下，那就可能會讓自己和同事分心。買之前在試衣間測試一下。坐下、扭動、站起來，反覆三次。如果裙子需要“管教”才能“保持規矩”，那就換其他款式。Leggings under a mini can look fresh while solving myriad ills from the over-reveal to unsightly skin. But they lend a casual attitude that may clash with formal offices or occasions.
迷你裙配打底褲看起來會比較清爽，同時還能解決暴露過多和皮膚難看等問題，但打底褲會營造出隨意的感覺，可能會和比較正式的辦公室等場合不相配。Pairing a sexy mini with platform high heels can easily veer into lady-of-the-evening territory. Chunky heels on boots or low pumps, on the other hand, can lend a mod look to the outfit. So can kitten heels. Contrary to myth, high heels don't actually make minis shorter, but they do place more focus on the legs and enhance the rear end.
性感迷你裙搭配厚底高跟鞋會很容易給人低俗的感覺。粗跟靴子或淺口皮鞋則會給整個裝扮帶來60年代摩登風格的感覺，中跟鞋也一樣。和普遍看法不同，高跟鞋其實並不會讓迷你裙顯得更短，但是的確會把更多的關注點放在腿上，並且讓臀部更突出。Minis have come and gone and come again since the 1960s. Designers love to switch directions in their pursuit of something new. Mr. Valli notes that this is his second round with minis since launching his label nine years ago. 'The great thing about fashion,' he says, 'is that season after season you can express one thing and the next collection its contrary.'
從1960年代開始，迷你裙來了又走，走了又來。設計師在追求新東西時喜歡更換方向。瓦利表示這是他九年前推出自己的品牌以來第二次設計迷你裙。他說：“時裝行業的好處是，不同的時裝季可以表達完全不同的東西。”When high-fashion hemlines dropped to the shin several years ago, some people attributed the shift to conservative feelings engendered by the financial crash and ensuing recession. Others pointed the finger at Janie Bryant, costume designer of the television show 'Mad Men,' which capitalized on a growing national obsession with midcentury modern style.
幾年前高檔裙裝長度長至小腿時，有人把這種轉變歸因於金融危機及隨之而來的衰退帶來的保守情緒。還有人認爲是詹妮·布賴恩特(Janie Bryant)的問題。她是電視劇集《廣告狂人》(Mad Men)的服裝設計師，這部劇抓住了人們對上世紀中葉現代風格日益迷戀的情愫。Whatever the cause, by the time designer Raf Simons made the fashion world swoon with a '50s Dior-esque collection for Jil Sander of wasp-waist, shin-length confections in February 2012, dresses required extra yardage.
無論是何種原因，當設計師拉夫·西蒙斯在2012年2月讓時尚界對其爲吉爾·桑達(Jil Sander)設計的蜂腰、長及小腿肚的50年代迪奧風格精美時裝系列而讚歎不已時，最受歡迎的還是長裙。The pendulum began to swing the other way about a year ago when ane put miniskirts and short baby doll dresses on Saint Laurent's runway in March 2013. They looked so short that critics shrugged and predicted they would never sell. A few months later, the dresses could be seen disappearing into the dressing rooms at the trend-forward boutique Maxfield in Los Angeles.
大約一年前，斯理曼在2013年3月的 羅蘭時裝秀上展出迷你裙和洋娃娃短裙時，天平開始向另一邊傾斜。這些裙子太短了，於是評論人士不以爲然，預測這些裙子不會暢銷。幾個月後，在洛杉磯潮流先鋒精品店Maxfield，它們成了顧客們最愛試穿的衣服。
