美國時尚界追捧的全新時裝品牌

A revolution is taking place in American fashion. With a focus on fit and durability, and collections built on basic staples and knitwear in neutral hues, this new breed of contemporary luxury labels is filling the most stylish wardrobes — and its discreet brand of understated and simple femininity is valued above all.

美國時尚界正在經歷乾坤鉅變。這類新涌現的奢侈品牌注重服裝的合身及耐用性，時裝系列由最基本的主打款式組成，針織衣物採用中性色，這些逐漸成爲炙手可熱的搶手貨——體現女性含蓄與簡潔的小衆品牌則最受青睞。

The Row — founded by Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen in 2006 — has built a following for essaying “relaxed and timeless elegance”. Gabriela Hearst describes her garments as “classic with a rustic edge”. Ryan Roche refers to her knitwear as “pared-back and minimal and essential”, while Rosetta Getty defines her eponymous line as “refined and easy to style for effortless dressing”.

由瑪麗-凱特(Mary-Kate)和阿什利•奧爾森(Ashley Olsen)姐妹創辦於2006年的品牌The Row因其“閒適雋永的優雅感”而擁躉如雲；加布麗埃拉•赫斯特(Gabriela Hearst)稱自己設計的時裝是“透着鄉土氣息的經典款式”；羅奇•瑞恩(Ryan Roche)稱自己設計的針織裝是“瘦削型、風格簡約、必不可少”，而羅塞塔•蓋蒂(Rosetta Getty)則把自己的同名品牌定義爲“精緻、隨意搭配的休閒裝”。

Set in 12 acres in New York state, Roche’s barn-conversion studio is a rustic space punctuated with oak worksurfaces and mood boards on whitewashed walls. Now in her eighth season, she takes her palette seriously and considers each collection an addition to a lifestyle look. “It’s part of the conversation, how the new colours are going to work with the season before,” she says. “It’s another reason my customers love my collection, as it’s so easy for them, everything is harmonious and all the shades work together.”

羅奇由穀倉改建而成的工作室位於美國紐約州鄉村（佔地面積達12英畝），工作室內不時可以看到橡木的工作臺面以及畫在白牆面上的各種情緒板。羅奇進入設計行當已有8個年頭，如今她對各種服裝顏色精明老到，覺得每個系列都好比增加了一款生活類時裝。“這是生活與時尚的互動內容——新色調如何銜接前一個時裝季。”她說，“這也是粉絲喜歡我設計的時裝的另一原因，因爲她們穿上後輕鬆自在，一切顯得那麼和諧自然，所有色調實現了珠聯璧合。”

Each of these labels focuses on building a wardrobe rather than offering trend-driven looks. Their success is in their uniformity — “we’re consistent with the way that we build on our collections,” says Ashley Olsen. “You’re adding pieces rather than discarding and starting afresh every season,” says Maria Lemos, founder of the wholesale showroom and communications agency Rainbowwave, which represents Hearst. “Pieces from these brands aren’t like a statement dress that after a while you feel you’ve worn to too many parties. These are investment pieces.”

上述每個品牌都專注於“開闢新的天地”而不是提供順應流行時尚的裝束。它們的成功就在於始終如一——“我們一以貫之設計時裝系列。”阿什利•奧爾森說。“我們每個時裝季只是添貨而不是另起爐竈重新開始。”瑪麗亞•萊莫斯(Maria Lemos)說，她是倫敦批發類展廳及廣告公司Rainbowave的創始人，Rainbowave是赫斯特品牌的代理公司。“上述幾個品牌並不像是那種沒穿幾次就已經顯得像是老面孔的高調華服，它們是真正值得買的時裝。”

Getty, who is based in LA, uses fabrics that can be worn throughout the year. “I may include a luscious cashmere for the fall season, or a fun, easy lace for spring — most of the fabrics are cross-seasonal,” she says. “My goal is to introduce clothing where the worth lies in the design and fabrication.”

定居洛杉磯的蓋蒂採用常年適穿面料設計時裝。“我或許會運用柔軟光滑的羊絨面料設計秋裝，或是用逗趣舒適的蕾絲裝設計春裝——多數面料都適合跨季穿。”她說，“我的目的是推出那些設計與做工俱佳的時裝。”

With sweaters costing from ￡700, durability and practicality are vital. Roche uses the finest Mongolian cashmere, but her sweaters can be machine washed on a delicate cycle and tumble dried. “I don’t want it to be too precious,” she says. “I want women to be able to really love it and live in it.”

對於起售價700英鎊的毛衣，經久耐穿與實用性至關重要。羅奇採用質量上乘的蒙古羊絨，但她的毛衣可用洗衣機柔洗以及使用滾筒進行乾燥。“我不想讓它太過嬌貴。”她說，“我希望女性朋友發自內心喜歡它，生活中片刻不離身。”

After testing the prototypes of her new handbag line, Hearst improved the hardware and closure of her “Nina” bag because it was opening too many times in a way she didn’t like. And when she became concerned that a waxed vest from her line would dirty other clothes, she wore it for a week to ensure it didn’t. “No disclaimer tag needed,” she says. Practical details are also considered: pockets must be big enough for an iPhone 6; shoes are made with double-welded soles for longevity.

檢測完自己的新手袋系列的樣品後，赫斯特着手改進了Nina手袋的開關與五金件，原因是手袋太過頻繁的開合很讓自己膩煩。當她擔心自己設計的一款蠟染馬甲可能會沾髒其它衣服時，爲此她親自試穿了一週時間才確定這純屬多慮。“不能以免責聲明推諉。”她說。她對各種實用性細節同樣上心：口袋必須大到能擱放一部iPhone 6手機；鞋跟必須雙面焊接以保證結實耐穿。

Luxury fabrics, and choosing to do much of their manufacturing in New York, mean higher prices, but despite this, these garments sell — very well. The Row is a bestseller on , and Roche’s $980 fisherman sweater sold out at Barneys this season. Getty “does incredibly well online”, says Lemos, and this season will be available at Selfridges. “It’s the way we live now; we want less but we want good quality.”

選用高檔面料以及大多在紐約製作完成的時裝意味着更高的售價，但儘管如此，這些時裝非常暢銷。The Row是網店上的銷量第一的品牌，羅奇售價980美元的厚毛衣(fisherman sweater)更是在巴尼斯百貨店(Barneys)被搶一空。蓋蒂的產品“在網店尤其暢銷”，萊莫斯說，這個時裝季，蓋蒂將進場塞爾福裏奇百貨(Selfridges)銷售。“這就是我們如今的生活特點——少而精爲上。”

Each of these women, who have a hugely aspirational lifestyle, makes an excellent advertisement for their label: Getty works from her mid-century mansion perched atop Runyon Canyon Park in the Hollywood Hills, Roche from her 17th-century barn studio. Hearst uses local artisans to weave wool sheared from sheep on her family’s Uruguayan ranch. There’s a simplicity to their idyllic way of life: swathed in cashmere and surrounded by nature. Sweaters, it seems, have serious selling power.

過着高大上生活的每一位女性設計師，就好比爲自己品牌做了一次絕佳的廣告代言：蓋蒂的工作場所就是其雄踞於好萊塢山中魯尼恩峽谷公園(Runyon Canyon Park in the Hollywood Hills)頂上的中世紀豪宅；而羅奇的工作場就在其17世紀的穀倉改建而成的工作室。赫斯特僱傭當地手工藝人紡羊毛，羊毛就剪自自己家在烏拉圭牧場飼養的綿羊。她們的田園牧歌生活簡單質樸：身穿羊絨衫怡然自得地生活在大自然的環抱中。毛衣似乎特別暢銷。

Rosetta Getty

羅塞塔•蓋蒂

“Every time I have an upcoming meeting or trip, I think about what pieces would make my life easier,” says mother-of-four Rosetta Getty, 46. “With my clothes, I want to tell a story by reimagining classic styles in a way that’s appealing to women like myself.” As a model, Getty was catapulted into the fashion industry aged 14, shuttling between Silver Lake, LA, and Europe to pose for Bruce Weber and Paul Jasmin. Now married to the Brothers & Sisters actor Balthazar Getty, great-grandson of the oil tycoon J Paul Getty, she launched her label for autumn 2014, having closed her Rosetta Millington childrenswear label in 2001 after 10 years.

“每次我赴會或是外出前，我都會認真考慮穿啥衣服能讓自己的生活更爲愜意。”今年46歲、已是4個孩子媽媽的蓋蒂這樣說道。“我設計時裝時，往往會設想這種款式是否會吸引像我這樣的女性。”14歲的蓋蒂偶然進入時尚界，成爲一名模特，從此她的生活就穿梭於洛杉磯的銀湖(Silver Lake, LA)與歐洲之間，參與布魯斯•韋伯(Bruce Weber)以及保羅•加斯明(Paul Jasmin)執拍的廣告片。嫁給《兄弟姐妹》(Brothers & Sisters)男主角、石油大亨保羅•蓋蒂(J Paul Getty)的孫子巴爾薩澤•蓋蒂(Balthazar Getty)後，她於2001年關閉了自己創建10年的童裝品牌Rosetta Millington，並於 2014年秋季創建了自己的同名時裝品牌。

She has a roster of high-profile friends to wear her designs, among them her childhood best friend Patricia Arquette, for whom Getty created a dress for the 2015 Academy Awards, where Arquette took home best supporting actress for Richard Linklater’s Boyhood.

很多明星朋友都是她時裝的粉絲，其中就有兒時的閨蜜帕特里夏•阿奎特(Patricia Arquette)，蓋蒂專爲對方設計了參加2015年奧斯卡頒獎典禮的一款連衣裙，阿奎特憑藉自己在理查•林克萊特(Richard Linklater)執導的《少年時代》(Boyhood)中的出色表演而勇奪最佳女配角獎。

Getty is a designer who opts not to dictate: “Many of the pieces are designed to be worn in multiple ways — ties that can be knotted closely to the body, draped or even left undone,” she says. Signatures include elongated tunics with fluid lines, worn over loose-fitting trousers.

蓋蒂不是一位因循守舊的設計師：許多時裝可有多種穿法——領帶既可系、也可裝飾，甚至只是掛在脖子裏壓根不繫。她的代表性時裝就是與寬鬆款褲子搭配、帶有流暢線條的瘦長束腰外衣。

Ryan Roche

瑞恩•羅奇

Before moving upstate eight years ago, Roche, 38, lived in Brooklyn, working on her then childrenswear label made from Japanese organic cotton. Encouraged by her clients, who included actresses Maggie Gyllenhaal and Milla Jovovich, Roche launched her women’s label in 2011 in the quietest way possible: sharing a 12-piece collection with an intimate group of friends and supporters. “It was tiny for a few years,” says Roche.

八年前北上發展時，今年38歲的羅奇一直居住於紐約的布魯克林，專心打造自己的童裝品牌（採用日本有機棉布）。在女星瑪姬•吉倫哈爾(Maggie Gyllenhaal)以及米拉•喬沃維奇(Milla Jovovich)等明星客戶的鼓動下，羅奇於2011年推出了自己的女性品牌，這是有史以來最名不見經傳的品牌：與一幫閨蜜與擁躉共享由12件時裝組成的系列。“幾年中，這個系列沒啥影響力。”羅奇說。

She has signed to an international showroom and word is spreading — Ryan Roche is now stocked by 55 retailers. While she plans to operate as a full lifestyle brand, she will remain true to the brand’s DNA. “The heart and soul of our brand will always be our knitwear,” she says of her aesthetic — staples include cashmere two-pieces and knitted evening gowns. “Two of my top sellers [the fisherman sweater and a fringed cashmere knit] are things I introduced in my first season. When I fall in love with something that a designer does, I’m heartbroken to see the next season it’s gone. It’s always been my philosophy to be consistent.”

她隨後與國際知名展廳簽約，其知名度迅速擴散——瑞恩•羅奇如今入主了55 家零售百貨店。雖說羅奇只打算成爲純生活類品牌，但她仍會忠於自己品牌的時尚風格。“針織裝永遠是自己品牌的核心。”她這樣評說自己的時尚風格——主要產品包括羊絨兩件套與針織類晚禮服。“兩款最爲暢銷的款式（厚毛衣與帶流蘇的羊絨針織毛衣）是自己首個時裝季推出的。我對某款時裝愛不釋手、但下個時裝季它卻成了“棄兒”後，就會爲此傷心不已。我的信條就是始終如一秉持自己的時尚風格。”

Gabriela Hearst

加布麗埃拉•赫斯特

“A lot of our product is made by hand in Italy, and when you’re making things by hand you have limitations and timings. You cannot rush it,” says Hearst, 39. “I think it comes from my ranching background. If you are in the middle of nowhere and really off the grid, everything has a purpose.”

“我的很多時裝都是在意大利手工製作而成，手工打造的時裝存在諸多侷限性以及時機把握的問題。不可能一蹴而就。”今年39歲的赫斯特這樣說道，“這覺得這一切源於自己的牧場生活經歷，置身於遠離現代科技的偏僻地方，做啥事都會有目的性。”

A former model, Hearst was born in Uruguay, during the civic-military dictatorship, and spent most of her summers on the family ranch herding cattle. The aesthetic of the label she founded in 2015 draws from both her upbringing in South America and Manhattan residency: matter-of-fact, wearable garments with a rustic edge, translating into an unfinished hem on a georgette gown, or teaming elegant dresses with heavy boots.

當過模特的赫斯特出生於烏拉圭，在烏國內軍政府獨裁統治期間，每個夏天的多數時間，她都會在家庭牧場放牧。她於2015年創建了自己的品牌，其時尚風格源於其從小在南美長大以及在曼哈頓生活的經歷：設計的服裝實用耐穿、透着鄉土氣息，最終推出的是帶着未染色褶邊的喬其紗（一種極薄的透明細紗）連衣裙以及搭配笨重靴子的漂亮裙子。

Hearst and her husband also manage the family’s livestock estate, and will this season use their own wool in her collections for the first time.

赫斯特與丈夫如今還經營着自家的畜牧場，今年這個時裝季，他們將首次採用自產的羊毛設計時裝。

The Row

The Row

That Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have managed to create one of the most coveted labels while remaining relatively under the radar is astonishing. Rather than becoming a flash-in-the-pan celebrity fashion line, the former actresses, 29, have proved slow and steady wins: after almost a decade in business they launched their first retail store in LA’s Melrose Place last year. “We like doing things slowly, seeing how people respond to things, and learning from our mistakes,” says Ashley. “We try not putting it all out there.”

瑪麗-凱特和阿什利•奧爾森姐妹設法創建了時尚界最令人覬覦的品牌、同時又保持低調神祕，此舉着實讓人難以置信。今年29歲的這對姐妹花非但沒有成爲曇花一現的名人時裝設計師，相反，這對昔日的女星成爲穩紮穩打的大贏家：從業近10年後，她們去年在洛杉磯的梅爾羅斯廣場(Melrose Place)開設了首家零售門店。“我們喜歡慢工出細活，隨時關注消費者的反饋，並從自己的失誤中汲取教訓。”阿什利說，“我們努力避免四面開花。”

The twins, who took over creative direction after losing Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski to Hermès in 2014, offer garments that have little intimation of gender. Ready-to-wear staples include cashmere and silk-blend capes, silk-satin camisoles and loosely tailored trousers (the label’s name alludes to the tailoring of Savile Row). “Retailers have seen that a quiet brand like The Row can be one of their best performers,” says Maria Lemos of Rainbowwave.

這對雙胞胎姐妹在Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski2014年轉投愛馬仕(Hermès)門下後，親自接任了創意總監一職，隨後推出了沒有性別界限的時裝。主要成衣款式包括了羊絨與真絲混紡的披肩、真絲緞的貼身背心以及休閒款褲子（品牌名字The Row暗指倫敦薩維爾街(Savile Row)定製成衣業）。“零售商們親睹了The Row這類名不見經傳的品牌變身爲最叫賣的品牌。”Rainbowwave創始人瑪麗亞•萊莫斯這樣說道。