職業套裝成爲時尚品牌雙語
自從伊夫•聖羅蘭(Yves St. Laurent)在1966年推出帥氣的“吸菸裝”(Le Smoking)以來，各大時裝品牌的秋季系列爲職業女性呈現出了一道最亮麗的風景線。接下來，小編給大家準備了職業套裝成爲時尚品牌雙語,歡迎大家參考與借鑑。
The fall 2010 collections may offer the best clothes for working women since Yves St. Laurent introduced the sleek 'Le Smoking' pantsuit in 1966.
在意大利的米蘭，古奇(Gucci)、吉爾•桑達(Jil Sander)、Etro、瑪尼(Marni)、杜嘉班納(Dolce & Gabbana)、普拉達(Prada)、寶緹嘉(Bottega Veneta)和Aquilano Rimondi都推出了優雅而經典的女性套裝──西裝外套搭配長褲或裙裝。在紐約，馬克•雅可布(Marc Jacobs)、邁克•科爾(Michael Kors)和其他品牌也如法炮製。現在輪到了法國人來引領這股潮流──爲期九天的巴黎時裝週近日拉開了帷幕。
In Milan, Gucci, Jil Sander, Etro, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Aquilano Rimondi all showed elegant, classic versions of women's suits -- tailored jackets with either pants or skirts to match. In New York, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and others did the same. Now it's up to the French -- who are just starting nine days of runways shows in Paris -- to shape the trend.
這些新套裝和過去幾年流行的款式大不相同。直到最近，實際上也就是大約兩週以前，從頭到腳搭配一致被認爲是一種時尚犯罪。花朵圖案可以和格子混搭，貂皮也可以和牛仔布放在一起。然而西裝外套和褲子或裙裝相搭配則意味着此人對時尚毫無品味。一個代表性的款式就是連衣裙搭配開衫，也就是米歇爾•奧巴馬(Michelle Obama)風格。眼下，設計師們的靈感來源似乎已經從第一夫人米歇爾身上轉移到了施樂(Xerox)董事長安妮•麥卡伊(Anne Mulcahy)。
It's hard to overstate how different the new suits are from the dominant styles of the past few years. Very recently -- until about two weeks ago, in fact -- being 'matchy-matchy' was considered a fashion crime. Florals could be mixed with plaid and sable with denim. But a tailored jacket that matched its pants or skirt suggested a blind eye toward style. A key look was a dress worn with a cardigan, Michelle Obama-style. Now, it looks as if designers have moved on from the first lady to adopt Xerox Chairman Anne Mulcahy as a muse.
另外，近年來T臺上展示的許多服裝款式都無外乎低領、透明、超短或緊身，這些樣式足夠讓人們在辦公室裏議論上一個星期的了。這就將很多的職業女性推向了Talbots或者St. John這些品牌，這讓她們感覺自己已經尷尬地落伍了。
Also, many of the clothes shown on runways in recent years were plunging, see-through, micro-mini, or so skinny that they would inspire a week of water-cooler talk at the office. That left a lot of working woman shopping at Talbots or St. John and feeling awkwardly out of fashion.
而新款式則讓人感覺舒服、強勢，它們也遠非曲線畢露。這讓人回想起查理(Charlie)女孩兒──上世紀70年代初露華濃(Revlon)香水廣告裏那些穿着套裝的女性。和最近幾年流行的墊肩裝不同，這些衣服除了面料的講究之外並沒有任何誇張之處。長款上衣和富於垂感的寬腿長褲讓女性的身材顯得更加高挑。
The new look is comfortable, strong and far from body-revealing. It's redolent of the Charlie girl -- the pantsuit-wearing woman in the early-1970s ads for the Revlon perfume. In contrast to the power-shoulder looks introduced in recent years, there is nothing exaggerated about these clothes except the luxury of the fabrics. The silhouette is elongated, with long jackets and flowy, relatively wide-legged pants.
由模特謝麗•哈克(Shelley Hack)演繹的查理女孩兒影響了許許多多的女性(其中包括當年還很年輕的奧普拉•溫弗莉(Oprah Winfrey)，她最近在自己的節目中作出了上述表示)，她們希望成爲廣告中的人物：性感而自信的現代職業女性。查理女孩兒身着飄逸的套裝，從上衣、裙子到絲綢襯衫都十分搭配。
The Charlie girl, as played by the model Shelley Hack, influenced thousands of women (including a young Oprah Winfrey, the entertainer recently said on her show) who wanted to be just like the figure in the ads: a modern career woman, sexy and confident. She wore a fluid pantsuit whose tailored jacket, trousers and silk blouse all matched.
如今，女性對於職業賦予自身的力量不再顯得那麼自信滿滿了。不過在米蘭，托馬斯•邁爾(Tomas Maier)讓人重新回想起了70年代的樂觀情緒。他爲寶緹嘉推出了一款優雅的“查理女孩兒”套裝。“掌控一切的不是衣服，而是女性，”他在時裝秀結束後表示。
These days, women aren't as optimistic about career empowerment. But in Milan, Tomas Maier, who showed a swank 'Charlie girl' suit for Bottega Veneta, recalled that '70s optimism. 'Clothes are not in control. Women are in control,' he said post-show.
由托馬索•阿奎拉諾 (Tommaso Aquilano)和羅伯特•瑞蒙蒂(Roberto Rimondi)設計的品牌Aquilano Rimondi展示了“查理女孩兒”套裝的另一個版本──深色、雙排扣、寬領──這一適合日常穿着的系列和他們過去幾季推出的那種過於考究複雜的款式形成了強烈反差。在這兩位設計師參與設計的Gianfranco Ferre品牌時裝中，他們的風格也大爲轉變：以舒適的灰色羊毛寬腿褲裝和其他剪裁講究的款式爲特色，這些款式看起來是爲了突出優點而不是暴露身材。
Aquilano Rimondi, designed by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, showed another version of a 'Charlie girl' suit -- dark, double-breasted and wide-lapeled -- in a wearable collection that contrasted sharply with the overly dressy and complicated looks they've shown in past seasons. The duo made a similar about-face at Gianfranco Ferre, which they also design, by featuring comfy-looking wide-legged pants in a sparkly gray wool, along with other highly tailored looks that seemed cut to flatter rather than to reveal.
這股套裝潮流已經變得勢不可擋，即使是那些風格完全不同的設計師也在順勢而爲。以鮮亮的色彩、波希米亞圖案和柔軟面料而聞名的維羅妮卡•艾特羅(Veronica Etro)也推出了搭配一致的上裝和窄腿褲，以及粉紅色的“查理女孩兒”套裝，不過和雙排扣上衣搭配的卻是七分褲、翻邊褲和闊腿褲。
The suiting trend is so marked that even designers who are known for something entirely different are showing it. Veronica Etro, renowned for her vivid colors, bohemian patterns and fluid fabrics, showed matching tops and narrow-legged pants, as well as a coral-colored 'Charlie girl' suit, updated with cropped, cuffed, wide-legged pants under its double-breasted jacket.
繆西婭•普拉達(Miuccia Prada)將她的秋季系列稱爲“正常的”服裝──“經典，經典，”她表示。她推出了束腰連衣裙，並在胸線上增加了縫褶的設計以貼合普通女性的體型，還搭配了簡潔的高跟鞋。這和她以往T臺秀的風格相比是個很大的轉變(水靴和短褲是她上個冬季系列的主打)，甚至可以稱得上是顛覆性的。
Miuccia Prada heralded her fall collection as 'normal' clothing -- 'classical, classical,' she said. She showed nip-waisted dresses, with darts at the bustline to fit a regular woman's figure, and simple heels. It was such a turn from what's usually on her runways (hip waders and panty-shorts were the essence of her last winter collection) that it seemed almost subversive.
看看這些系列在擺上零售店的貨架之後銷售情況如何將是件讓人興奮的事情。美國的百貨商場似乎正在欣然接納這股潮流。內曼•馬庫斯(Neiman Marcus)的時尚總監肯•唐寧(Ken Downing)在米蘭表示，從目前來看，這一季的服裝銷售不錯。
It will be exciting to see how these collections sell when they arrive in stores. American department stores appear to be embracing the approach. Ken Downing, fashion director for Neiman Marcus, said in Milan that it's been a 'good season so far.'
在米蘭的古奇時裝秀開場前，波道夫•古德曼(Bergdorf Goodman)的時尚總監琳達•法戈(Linda Fargo)表示，她歡迎“向經典式樣的迴歸” 。古奇接下來的時裝秀展示了很多搭配一致的灰色套裝──西裝上衣和長褲，也突出了對手感和奢華面料的注重。
As she waited for Gucci's show to begin in Milan, Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman's fashion director, said she welcomes the 'return to classic tailoring.' What followed at Gucci was a lot of matching gray suiting -- tailored jackets and long pants -- and an emphasis on texture and luxury fabrics.
這股風潮的頂峯出現在了杜嘉班納的秀場上。這一季，他們向西裝外套──還有該品牌裁縫們的高超技藝表達了敬意。來自意大利的杜嘉班納靠富於挑逗性的廣告和時裝秀樹立起了名聲。
The height of the trend came at Dolce & Gabbana, which has built its reputation on provocative ads and shows. This season, it offered an emotional tribute to the tailored jacket -- and the skills of the seamstresses and tailors who labor on the Italian company's clothing.
T臺上的背景影片展示了這些員工量衣和縫紉的慢鏡頭，而模特們則在前臺展示着成衣。(爲了追求藝術表現力，西裝外套裏面有時只穿着貼身內衣。)影片對縫紉技藝的展現充滿了敬意，這讓臺下的許多觀衆爲之感動。更多信息請訪問：
A film in the backdrop showed these employees measuring, pinning and stitching in slow motion, as live models in the foreground cat-walked in versions of tailored suits. (For artistic effect, the jackets were sometimes worn over lingerie.) The acknowledgment of tailoring was so full of reverence that it left numerous moist eyes in the audience.
隨後這場時裝秀落下了帷幕──不過，最後出場的不是通常的夢幻禮服，而是一件精心剪裁的大衣。
Then the show closed -- not on the standard fantasy gown but on a perfectly tailored overcoat.
