法國總統馬克龍爲何從不鬆領帶？

That tie. He just won’t take it off, even when picking his way in sweltering heat through the rubble left by Hurricane Irma on the French Caribbean island of St. Martin.
那領帶，他是不會摘掉的。就算在酷熱的天氣中視察受颶風艾爾瑪襲擊的加勒比海聖馬丁島上災情時也是一樣。

President Emmanuel Macron has shaken French politics to its core but dares not breach the dress code for a French chief of state. The tie, preferably dark, is de rigueur.
法國總統馬克龍顛覆了法國的政治傳統，卻不敢違背法國國家元首的着裝規則。領帶，最好爲深色，是社交禮儀中的必備之物。

King Willem-Alexander of the Netherlands also flew to St. Martin to assess damage. He wore a khaki-colored shirt, sleeves rolled to the elbows — and no necktie.
荷蘭國王威廉-亞歷山大也到訪聖馬丁視察災情。他身着卡其色襯衣，袖子挽至手肘，沒有打領帶。

“He’s a real king. He doesn’t need to post signs to show his stature,” said Jamil Dakhlia, a Sorbonne University sociologist specializing in political communications.
巴黎索邦大學政治傳播社會學專家賈米勒•達赫利亞說：“威廉-亞歷山大是真正的國王，不需要在形象上體現自己的身份。”

The French Revolution ended the country’s monarchy in 1789. The French presidency remains powerful but there is “a need to show with symbols one’s legitimacy. So, you must keep the tie on,” Dakhlia explained.
1789年法國大革命結束了法國的君主政體。法國總統一直大權在握，但是，達赫利亞解釋說，“有必要通過一些象徵彰顯正統性，所以必須打領帶”。

The Dutch king also is not a 39-year-old former investment banker looking to upset the political system with his upstart centrist party and planning to undo France’s nearly sacrosanct labor laws — all while sliding in popularity.
今年39歲的馬克龍，曾在投行工作。儘管上任後民意支持率不斷下滑，但馬克龍仍試圖改革現有政治體制，帶領異軍突起的中間派政黨，改革法國幾乎神聖不可侵犯的勞動法。這些，都不是荷蘭國王面臨的問題。

Conscious of his baggage, Macron donned a tie while campaigning and has kept it on ever since, even during events in which sartorial elegance might be understandably cast aside.
馬克龍清楚自己的責任所在，從競選時就一直打着領帶，甚至是在大家都可以理解不用打領帶的場合也是如此。

There he was in April, before his May election, in a coat and tie trying to talk down screaming angry factory workers outside their Whirlpool plant.
今年4月，總統大選前一個月，馬克龍在惠而浦工廠外，穿着西裝打着領帶，試圖說服羣情激奮的憤怒工人們。

Two months later, as president, he was playing tennis — sans vest but with a tie — from a wheelchair alongside disabled athletes to promote Paris’ bid to host the 2024 Olympics. The French capital went on to win the opportunity.
兩個月後，已當選總統的他爲了推動巴黎申辦2024年奧運會，坐上輪椅同殘疾運動員一起打網球，沒穿運動背心但卻打着領帶。巴黎之後贏得了這次舉辦權。

On Monday, Macron, doubtless wearing a thin dark tie, attended his first UN General Assembly in New York. There he also met with President Donald Trump, who is known to have a penchant for long neckties, often red or blue.
馬克龍於18日在美國紐約首次出席聯合國大會，毫無疑問打着細窄的黑色領帶。他還會見了美國總統特朗普，衆所周知特朗普酷愛紅色或藍色的長領帶。

In St. Martin for two days, the French president trudged through debris on the devastated island wearing a dark tie over a white shirt, the sleeves rolled up in the smothering heat and humidity but mysteriously always crisp-looking.
在聖馬丁視察的兩天裏，馬克龍身穿白色襯衣打着黑色領帶在被颶風襲擊的島嶼斷壁殘垣中跋涉，袖子挽起，與溼熱難耐的畫風有些格格不入。

“What surprised me the most was that he took off his suit jacket,” said Dakhlia.
達赫利亞說：“他竟然脫掉了西服外套。這是最讓我意外的”。

“For a long time … (Macron) was accused of not having legitimacy, of being too young, with no real political capital,” Dakhlia noted, saying Macron would have removed his tie at his peril. “If he had done it … it would have been noted as a way to try to be close to the people, as insincere stagecraft.”
達赫利亞說：“馬克龍作爲總統的資質一直飽受質疑，人們覺得他太年輕，缺乏真正的政治資本。”他說，如果馬克龍鬆開領帶，那無疑是在冒險。“如果他鬆開領帶，就會被視爲想和民衆親近，是虛假的作秀。”

The Western neck tie is widely considered to have its origins with 17th-century Croatian mercenaries, wearing colorful neck bands, during the Thirty Years War between European powers. The neck band evolved and spread.
人們通常認爲，西式領帶源於17世紀克羅地亞僱傭兵衣領上各種色彩的圍頸帶，當時正值歐洲各大國的三十年戰爭期間。隨後圍頸帶發展爲領帶，並流行起來。

Today, the wardrobe of French leaders, tie included, is scrutinized by journalists deciphering the strengths and weaknesses of their chiefs of state. Macron’s ties have grown darker and thinner as president and the knots he used to use in his banking days have changed.
如今，記者們緊盯法國總統的領帶等服飾，以此解讀總統的優點和弱點。如今，馬克龍的領帶顏色更深、樣式更窄，領結也與在投行從業時經常佩戴的不同。

Macron may have taken a clue from his unpopular predecessor, Francois Hollande, who had endless bad tie days.
上任總統弗朗索瓦•奧朗德因領帶而被吐槽的經歷或許能給馬克龍帶來一些啓發。

Hollande’s cravat was always crooked and he became the butt of jokes. A website was even started, , which graded the appearance of Hollande’s ties on each public outing.
在法國媒體眼裏，奧朗德的領帶總沒有戴正，因此遭人嘲笑。法國甚至有一家網站專門給他每次亮相時戴的領帶打分。

But even as a rookie president, Hollande knew the French dress code. He was the only world leader at a 2012 G-8 summit at Camp David, just after his election, to show up wearing a necktie.
但即使是剛上任時，奧朗德也深知法國的着裝規範。2012年八國集團峯會在美國戴維營召開，奧朗德是唯一一位佩戴領帶出席的領導人，當時他剛剛上任。

“Francois, we said you could take off the tie,” the host, then-President Barack Obama, joked.
作爲東道主，時任美國總統奧巴馬開玩笑說，“弗朗索瓦，我們覺得你可以把領帶解開”。

Hollande refused, saying that it’s “for my press!”
奧朗德拒絕了，說這是“爲媒體打的”。

據媒體報道，“爲了你的記者會，你必須看起來比較好。”奧巴馬繼續說。

隨後，與會領導人便一同走向一個小木屋吃工作餐。根據美國白宮晚些時候公佈的一張餐會照片，奧朗德吃飯時坐在奧巴馬的旁邊，且已經摘下了他的領帶。